Im in the process of doing some tuning now and i cant seem to find the answer of what to change to get ride of this hanging idle. Its very annoying. When i come up to a stop the idle is at 1500 rpms until i come to a complete stop and then it drops down to where it should be. I read some threads dealing with this but none of them really gave an exact answer for what is going on and what needs to change.

 

When I swapped a T56 into my 88 IROC Z I used APYP and modified the spark tables then started adjusting from there. APYP is the corvette manual 6 speed .bin equal to ARAP.

 

This bin started out as an ARAP but is pretty modified from there. It needs some fine tuning but i really would like to get rid of this issue. Its pretty annoying to drive with.

 

You do have the speedometer hooked up right. If its not the computer won't know how fast you are going and it will cause it to hang too.

 

Yup its all hooked up.

 

What TORN said plus the P/N input to the ECM. For a stick shift it needs to be open, not connected to anything.

Also do/check the minimum idle air set up. On the MAF TPI system it is critical for a decent idle.

Starting with ARAP, there is a setting in the IAC parameters to tell the code that it is a stick shift car.

RBob.

 

For the park/neutral input are you referring to the neutral safety wires (purple and yellow if i remember right)? My car was formerly an auto and now is stick. It did this same thing with a TPIS chip. Then i started to do some tuning and fiddling with the minimum air. I could not get the tune correct so i put the TPIS chip back in and it did not do the idle hanging anymore. Then i started tuning again and did not touch the minimum air but the idle hang is back. Maybe i need to redo it again?

 

Rbob and torn are referring to pin B10 of the 1227165 orange/ blk stripe need to be open not grounded.

 

Yup its not hooked up.

As for the setting the iac (idle) i went through and did it all over again. I noticed now that i didnt use the paper clip across a-b. But at any rate i set the idle with the IAC disconnected to around 700 and then reconnected the iac. I took it for a drive and at first i thought that solved the issue because for the first three stops the idle didnt hang. Then about 5 minutes into the drive it started to do it again at stoplights. I thought that was too easy. Did not using the paper clip screw up the whole thing and means i need to start over?

 

700 seem high to me. Tech on front page says to adjust to 450.

 

 

Guys i have a cam i cant get the car to idle that low. It will idle for a little while but then die. I cant get the idle to pick up in the tune either using the one or two idle tables.

 

This was a post of some testing I did on a bench with an SD system.
The parameters may translate to what you are using.
It was with a startup "flare" problem but I did find how to make the RPM come down quicker at a stop.
Take a look.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ont-reset.html

Jp

 

Ok im back again. I just got done swapping a Arizona speed and marine ported 52mm throttle body on and resting my idle and TPS (this time going by the books at around 450...had to guess that since my engine would not run under 500rpms). Idle is nice and smooth but i STILL have a hanging idle when i come to a stop. Ive looked around at thread after thread about idle follower and IAC anything and most of them have to do with SD. Im still running a maf and tuning with a a 6e def. Anyone have any experience as to what in the tune i need to change to make this thing stop doing that?

Oh and it doesnt do it in closed loop. Only in open loop when warmed up.

 

bump anyone?

 

try lowering the idle limiter values

 

Did you switch everything over to the APYP .bin yet? If you are running ARAP its looking for the torque converter that is no longer there.

 

Wont switching over to that screw up all my tuning up to now? My car is tuned on the ARAP right now and id rather not loose all of that and start over.

 

I didnt see that anywhere in tunerpro but i will look again when i get a chance.

 

Well yes and no there are settings deep in the .bin that are setup for a manual car that can't be changed by tunerpro. That is what I read on here and is why I would suggest you do the same. Roll your spark tables over into the APYP .bin and see how far off it is. the ARAP and APYP was made for the same year car only difference was trans.

 

Are their filters in TP for your def file? Filter will time out the event to end earlier or later. The event being throttle follower. smaller filter-event lasts longer.

 

I have no clue about filters or not. The big thing is i did a search through tunerpro and could not find anything about throttle or throttle follower at all. Is it named something else or am i looking in the wrong spot?

 

IAC-throttle follower ?

AE-throttle follower ?

 

Nope nothing on either of those. I searched for throttle got nothing....searched follower got nothing. I looked at all the IAC settings and dont really know what to change so i didnt mess with them yet.

 

You've had lots of good advice here but keep looking for an IAC parameter to change, many times you can't tune out a mechanical issue.

Like why did your car idle lower with new throttle body and not old one?

But I think your biggest issue is the Auto bin. If you open up 2 TunerPro you can move your tuned stuff into a Manual bin easily. There are big changes in IAC logic from Auto to Manual. Just move tuned stuff and leave other stuff alone, you can change to much.

The way you did min Air Adjust by the book would be fine if your idle is set by the book. But you said it idles higher RPM because of cam. So take that idle, say 800 RPM and set min air 100 RPM below that. Point is to give some work to IAC but not all work. This adjustment has to be done totally warmed up and even driven to be accurate.

You car was an Auto, now Manual, the P/N wire must be disconnected. I know you said it was but this issue is clearly caused by this in other cases.

Data log when it's happening! Compare RPM and MPH to settings in bin. Is your VSS working properly?

One parameter I think could help if it is in your mask is "IAC - Position vs Temp" cutting these in half is usually where I start with idle issues like this... when all other things above are in order.

HTH!

 

I guess i should have been more clear. The 52mm throttle body didnt change anything. It behaved the same with both as far as hanging idle.

My big question is...how can i easily switch everything over to a manual bin? Im a bit PC stupid (use a mac mostly) so im not exactly sure of the logistics of it. From the sound of it that could very well be my problem.

 

Open TunerPro with your tuned bin file and XDF. Parameter Tree and choose Parameter Ordered List, now you will have all parameters open.

Go to Tools, Custom Tools and New TunerPro Instance.
In the second TunerPro load your new stock bin and xdf.
Parameter Tree and choose Parameter Ordered List, now you will have all parameters open.

Right click on the Parameter you want to copy from tuned bin and choose Copy XDF Parameter to Clip board, right click on new bin and paste it in under old one and delete old one. One by one of what you want. Should be very specific like fueling, spark and important changes, not all of them! Manual and Auto have a lot of different settings. Then test it, tune, rinse and repeat!

 

Thanks! I will give that a try once i get home.