So I connect it to my car(89 IROC) with ignition on and keeps saying not connected, com port is set on 2 and I have the files I need but I dnt know what im doing wrong if anyone could walk m through it from the beginning that would really help thanks in advance.


I'm trying to tune with my new setup HSR,AFR heads...

 

Are you using a resistor when trying to connect?

 

Mine does the same thing. WINALDL picks it right up.

 

what you mean a resistor?

 

ok so now it only says hardware not found, I know my laptop detects the cable connected, but not tuner pro program since everytime I click on initialize hardware it just says no hardware found, I have a 16198259 ecm. The files used with ecm 165 should be the same files for this one or am I wrong?


Well now im stuck it use to say DA not connected now its connected after going into tools- preferences and setting it to autoprom.


I want to see how it is running and see what changes to make. Appreciate all the help.

 

If you're attempting to collect data using an ALDL cable, don't set it for AutoProm. Leave it for the plug in. You have to configure the plug in component to work with the com port you have the cable set to. You might also have to change the resistor's position on the USB to change the baud rate so it can detect your ECM.

 

I got it to where Tunerpro says DA:Connecting, but it never connects.

 

How do I change the resistors position on USB? It says Com port 1 or 4 I try on both n nothing

 

Same here it says Da connected but nothing happens but now that it's set to plug in it doesn't detect it.

 

4

With the key on in the car? Mine will continuously say connecting if the car isn't running or the key isn't in the on position.

There should be a 4 pin connector type of thing on the USB, it has a jumper that connects to two pins, you can change the jumpers position to adjust the baud rate of the connection.

This should be helpful.
http://www.aldlcable.com/aldl.asp

 

That 4 pin jumper terminal does nothing for Baud rate change. It is Simply Normal, Jumper A to B, and the 10k resistor.

 

I'm having the same problem as everyone else on my 1987 IROC TPI motor. I have the Moates cable and resister box so I'm able to toggle back and forth between the 10k Ohm and Open option with very little difference besides the car running rough for a little bit in the 10k mode.

I have someone from the forum trying hard to help me but it seems one of my problems could be the ECM itself is sometimes not allowing the datalogging connection. Worst case it appears I might need to consider swapping ECM's but before I go to the extreme I wanted to make sure I'm doing everything else correctly. Also the software I'm using is TunerPro RT. Anyway to test if it's the ECM or has someone beat the problem all of us seem to be having?

 

I don't know how anyone can give logical advice without knowing what hardware is being used.

To the OP, are you using an AutoProm? If not what hardware are you using exactly?

The test for valid hardware is ONLY for emulation hardware, not for datalogging hardware so you will never get a positive response from clicking that button, without having emulation hardware connected and the dip switches set properly.

To SKFengineer; The '165 ('87 to '89 TPI ECM) is one that is temperamental when it comes to connecting to the ALDL.
Sometimes there needs to be a delay added to the ADX to have the data line up, I don't recall all of the details but I believe they've been posted on here, and I know that the details on how to do it have been posted at gearhead-efi.com, by the late Eaglemark.

 

Six-shooter, thanks for your reply... I been to the Gearhead-EFI site and the last I heard about EagleMark was that he was sick so although I never met him this makes me sad to have another good part of our community lost. (Corvette Action Center, lost a good friend this week too...)

I've heard that the ECM in my car is a PITA and I have seen the files on the GearHead site but I'm beyond green when it comes to this work and I relate everything back to a mechanical analogy that I can understand better so this is an uphill battle. Also I've been working with a member on the forum and I'm waiting for a handful of answers but to be fair I just emailed him yesterday.

After reading the forums last night it seems the computer in use can make the difference. So I'm working with an HP EliteBook 8440p and Windows 7. I have the moates ALDL cable etc... And then my troublesome 1987 IROC, which actually runs fine but I want to do better. It seems the GearHeadEFI site has the newest or best $32B file for my car. Can anyone confirm this fact?