Hello, I have my 92 corvette LT1 at the machine shop to have it built up with port matched heads, forged swing assembly and vendor suggested camshaft, updated fuel system, and higher energy ignition system. This car is not going to be raced, it is only more for show and tell, and is going to run on street gas. The machine shop is telling me that they can’t order parts, specifically the camshaft, until my local tuner guy gets feedback from you guys (Moats) gets back in touch with him with any limitations on what build can be supported, or tuned. To help things along, given time constraints, is there anything I can supply you all with regards to my specific build, that you need to know, so that I can insure that my build can be tuned? I was under the impression that if I do a proven build that has proven successful in the past, that you all could tune it. What can I do to insure that whatever build I do, I can be assured that the setup is tunable? My engine has been at the shop now for 3 month’s, and I really need to get these guys going, so they can order my parts, and get this thing done.
Thank you very much for any info on this matter

 

I believe the 92-93 stuff is chip tuned like all the tpi cars? Still using $EE mask? I only messed with 94-95 stuff and know 96-97 were obd2, requiring different software.

That said, i would do something like a comp xfi 268 hyd roller. Mild enough to tune easy. But aggressive enough to make serious power. Requires good springs. Heads machined and set up for the high lift

 

$ee is easy to tune for aggressive cams. If it can't be tuned get a new tuner.
What you need to worry about is going too aggressive and losing vacuum and therefore brakes.
I had oem drivability with what was described by many as overly aggressive (it was exactly what I wanted and spec'd)

 

92-93 is a chip based ECU that runs MAP only. I believe it was $DA2 or $DA3. Y-body ran one mask and F-body the other. Keep in mind that those early LT1s also did not run a 4L60E they had a hydraulicallt shifted 4L60 non E aka renamed 700r4 with a 5 pin TCC connector.

 

Yeah, $DA2 I believe for the Vettes.

It does tune very much like the TPI's... very similar tables, constants, etc.

I reference the $DA3 tables/constants heavily in tuning for my Miniram intake with $8D on a 7730 TPI system (ESPECIALLY the AE values). In fact, many of the fuel/spark values/constants transfer over with very minimal tweaks (if not outright verbatim... like the LT4 spark map I'm running near-verbatim except for some low rpm changes).

For reference I'm also running a 268 cam in my car at 9.9:1 static compression (even with the aggressive LT4 spark map lifted off the $EE mask, no knock counts). ZZ4 350, AFR heads... should be pretty similar to your set up.

Smooth idle, awesome power, and (I kid you not) 27 mpg with the highway mode dialed into 16-16.5:1 AFR, with TH700R4 and 3.42 axle ratio.

Bottom line is, as close as I am to the $DA3/$DA2 values with my setup, my guess you'd need minimal changes with that cam since you're already running a $DA3/$DA2.

 

Guess i forgot to ask is it staying stock cubes or going stroker for a 383? If so you could run the 280 xfi or equivalent cam in 383 inches and have a stout good driving combo

 

The Forged assembly is entirely not necessary. Just have the stock crank/rods/pistons cleaned up if they are in good condition. Unless you are planning on nitrous or forced induction the stock rotating assembly will provide reliable bottom-end for 450hp @ crank no problem. My car is cammed to the moon and all I did was have the stock assembly cleaned up and balanced, and then rebuilt with ARP hardware. And I have no worries when shifting it at 6800rpm. I also have the top-end to go that high though.

Contact Lloyd Elliot, or Advanced Induction and talk to them. Describe what you want to do and they can spec a camshaft and spring setup to meet your needs.

Lloyd Elliot makes a very nice emissions compatible cam that idles like a LT4 Hot-cam. AI does the same. Both of these cams will make more power everywhere than the LT4 hot-cam does, sometimes quite a bit if you have the head flow for it.

If you want a simple no guessing solution? Honestly run a LT4 Hot-cam. You can get the spring kit and everything for pretty cheap. It will produce between 350-400hp @ the crank.

You'd end up with a car that idles almost dead stock, has perfect stock like drivability in traffic with more power up top. You don't really start to sacrifice low-end torque until you get into the more aggressive cams.

Street bruisers are SLOWER with big cams like I have in my GTA. So that thump thump cammin' sound? Just means that on the street you are slower if you don't have all the accompanying mods.

To make power with an LT1 requires spinning it a lot faster, or going to bigger cubes. The stock intake flows quiet well, and the stock heads are decent for a as cast SBC style head (but nowhere near LS territory)

All the guys making big LT1 power are doing so with big cubes, or a big cam. Or a both at once. And to be honest, if you want a street cruiser then big cams are not worth it. You'd end up disappointed in how the car felt.

 

After my doing my research, the hotcam specs were what I wanted, but chose a Voodoo cam for more modern lobe profiles. Specs out REAL close the venerable HC. Been real happy so far, but of course, no back to back comparo. Just my

EDIT - That's only IF someone were to choose the Hotcam. Not saying it IS or is NOT the right cam for the OP.

 

I think any modern cam with similar duration, lift, and lobe separation would satisfy the OP. Plenty of grunt at idle, good high RPM power, and won't sacrifice too much fuel economy really.

Lunati is who actually makes the cam core in my GTA. It uses their asymmetric lobe design with Lloyd's specs.

 

To the OP:
This gentleman can tune any cam profile you choose? I'd stick with the more common sense advive in this thread, but he claims he can tune anything for the $DA2.

 

The inference here is not my intended implication.

I know NOTHING about $DA2, it may be the same or similar enough to $EE, but I don't know that and don't presume to.

To clarify, I think any cam specced properly or even aggressively for that motor by anybody competent can be tuned and that you'll likely run into vacuum problems prior to tuning issues. I'm in no way saying that I can make any cam work well, nor that I'm willing to tune for anybody.

I hope that's clarity.

 

$DA2/$DA3 are extremely similar to 7730 in terms of the calibration content. If you can tune a 7730, you can tune a $DA2/$DA3.