I want to install foglights...
#1
I want to install foglights...
I want to put a Z28 grill and foglights on my 91 RS. I've heard it's not too hard to do. I know I need the obvious...grill, lamps, switch. What else is needed? How much will this stuff cost and where? Is there a good procedure somewhere on how to do this?
#2
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Car: 92 Z28 Z03
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 G80
all you do is first put in the Z28 grill. I have a z28 so took out the stock ones and just screwed in the new ones which would be on the top inside of the grill. Then when you get a fog light kit it comes with all the stuff you need to wire it up. I know foglights cost around 30-50$. The grill im sure will run you into the hundreds. But it is pretty easy to do. To get the grill try ebay. for foglights you can get them petty much anywhere.
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Nice car...I have one just like it. I did the same install back in February. It's fairly simple depending on how classy you want it to look. As far as the interior goes, all you need is a factory foglight switch and the trim plate with the hole in it. You need some 14-16 gauge wire (get about 15-20 feet of it) and a Bosch-type relay from Radio Shack. I was lucky and got some factory-style lights off eBay for $15 and used a set of stock light brackets to mount them. I did have to get new adjusting screws and bracket mounting hardware but I'm sure you can figure that out yourself. I did a Google search under "foglight wiring diagram" and used the one I found... I can send it to you if I need to. You will probably find one if you search this site too. Mount the relay in the engine compartment, I put mine right next to the battery above the power distribution block, which is to the left of the radiator (when looking at the car from the front). I ran power from the battery, fused with a factory inline fuse mount..(for example, there's one right next to your battery...little black box with 2 wires going into it). Got one off a scrap car. Then ran power to the appropriate terminal on the relay, then out to the lights. Ground the lights and that's it. Follow the diagram, it's easy.
For dash wires, I used the Interior light terminal in the fuse box, this way, the lights are only on when your parking lights or headlights are on. (Nothing bothers me more than to see foglights on and no other lights on...looks like crap.)
The factory switch will have 4 terminals: one for ground, two for on/off, and one for the switch light. I used a multimeter to figure out which is which. I ran 2 wires from the interior light terminal in the fuse box, one for the on/off and one for the lighted switch. Then run a wire to the relay for the on/off and then ground the switch.
More info here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ghlight=lights
Lemme know if you need more help. Total investment for me including the new grille was less than $75.
For dash wires, I used the Interior light terminal in the fuse box, this way, the lights are only on when your parking lights or headlights are on. (Nothing bothers me more than to see foglights on and no other lights on...looks like crap.)
The factory switch will have 4 terminals: one for ground, two for on/off, and one for the switch light. I used a multimeter to figure out which is which. I ran 2 wires from the interior light terminal in the fuse box, one for the on/off and one for the lighted switch. Then run a wire to the relay for the on/off and then ground the switch.
More info here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ghlight=lights
Lemme know if you need more help. Total investment for me including the new grille was less than $75.
#7
okay...i've got a few questions before I start ordering stuff. ThirdGenResource doesn't have any foglight switches but I went to GMPartsDirect and they have it for $12.65. What is the part# for the trim plate? The grill seems like it'll be the easy part of the installation - I'll order that from TGR for $55.00. One question about the grill - you can get the IROC grill that says "CAMARO" or the newer Z28 grill with the bowtie - will they both fit even though they are for different years? I'd rather get the older one that says "CAMARO". Foglight brackets I will get from TGR for $26.99 each. As for the actual foglights...they are available at TGR for $95.00 each , but do these come with all the wiring already? Would it be better to buy generic lights (are they that different looking?) and get the wire separate? As for the relay...how much does that cost? That's all the questions for now...I'm sure this will all be worth it!
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#8
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
91TealRS:
Either grille will fit, your choice. They just may mount a bit different....screw hole here difference and there.
I find it hard to believe that the damn brackets are $27 each...good night!! The lights are indeed high as hell. I have a couple extra lights but I need good lenses which are very hard to come by, and they may or may not come with the light socket included, depends where you get them.
The relay is about $5 or 6 at Radio Shack.
Either grille will fit, your choice. They just may mount a bit different....screw hole here difference and there.
I find it hard to believe that the damn brackets are $27 each...good night!! The lights are indeed high as hell. I have a couple extra lights but I need good lenses which are very hard to come by, and they may or may not come with the light socket included, depends where you get them.
The relay is about $5 or 6 at Radio Shack.
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Here's part of an off-site discussion I'm having about the light install I thought I should share:
The back of the factory switch looks like this (or pretty close). You are correct, one on top and in the middle and 2 on the bottom:
-------
! A!
! B!
!C D!
-------
A and C should be for the light in the switch itself, and B and D should be for the ON/OFF part. To test this without a multimeter (MM), get 2 short pieces of wire, hold them to a terminal on the switch, and touch the pos and neg on the battery to find the light terminals...it should light up. Don't worry, you won't blow the switch, it's rated for battery voltage. To test for the ON/OFF terminals, I think a MM is best, one with a continuity alarm is even better. You should have close to zero Ohms when the switch is ON, and Infinity when the switch is OFF. I used the A termminal to ground, and ran 2 wires from the Interior light terminal in the fuse box to BOTH C and D. I then used B to go to the relay in the engine compartment.
I hope this helps and you get the lights hooked up. Lemme know if you have any more trouble and I'll pull my dash apart to get it right.
Also, previously posted by Willie:
NEVER power a high draw accessory (such as fog lamps) through the switch. Doing so will cause overheating and fires. ALWAYS use a relay so the current draw through the switch is low.
First, you'll need a 12-volt SPDT (single pole, double throw) automotive relay. Radio Shack stocks these. The following numbered contacts refer to the corresponding relay contact (numbered on the relay):
10-12 gauge wire
#30 SPDT to +12 battery (high draw from source)
10-12 gauge wire
#87 SPDT to fog lamps (high draw to lamps)
18 gauge wire
#86 SPDT to switch
18 gauge wire
#85 SPDT to ground
Use 18 gauge wire on the remaining switch terminal to a 12-volt ignition source. Also use 10-12 gauge wire to ground the lamps.
Here's a basic diagram to follow:
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...h/foglites.htm
The back of the factory switch looks like this (or pretty close). You are correct, one on top and in the middle and 2 on the bottom:
-------
! A!
! B!
!C D!
-------
A and C should be for the light in the switch itself, and B and D should be for the ON/OFF part. To test this without a multimeter (MM), get 2 short pieces of wire, hold them to a terminal on the switch, and touch the pos and neg on the battery to find the light terminals...it should light up. Don't worry, you won't blow the switch, it's rated for battery voltage. To test for the ON/OFF terminals, I think a MM is best, one with a continuity alarm is even better. You should have close to zero Ohms when the switch is ON, and Infinity when the switch is OFF. I used the A termminal to ground, and ran 2 wires from the Interior light terminal in the fuse box to BOTH C and D. I then used B to go to the relay in the engine compartment.
I hope this helps and you get the lights hooked up. Lemme know if you have any more trouble and I'll pull my dash apart to get it right.
Also, previously posted by Willie:
NEVER power a high draw accessory (such as fog lamps) through the switch. Doing so will cause overheating and fires. ALWAYS use a relay so the current draw through the switch is low.
First, you'll need a 12-volt SPDT (single pole, double throw) automotive relay. Radio Shack stocks these. The following numbered contacts refer to the corresponding relay contact (numbered on the relay):
10-12 gauge wire
#30 SPDT to +12 battery (high draw from source)
10-12 gauge wire
#87 SPDT to fog lamps (high draw to lamps)
18 gauge wire
#86 SPDT to switch
18 gauge wire
#85 SPDT to ground
Use 18 gauge wire on the remaining switch terminal to a 12-volt ignition source. Also use 10-12 gauge wire to ground the lamps.
Here's a basic diagram to follow:
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...h/foglites.htm
Last edited by ebmiller88; 04-27-2002 at 11:56 PM.
#12
okay great...thanx. one FINAL thing...I need the part number for the switch trim plate. should i order this or just cut a hole in the existing one? i'd like to order it if possible.
#13
A z-28 just crossed into my dad's hands via the local buddy trading ring, and he asked me if I wanted any parts off of it for my Rally Sport, (which is Teal, and a '91 by the way), before he sold it, the little grill thingy is the first thing I thought of.
My question is, would it be mo' better, (cooler, more preformance orientated, more.... better), to use the suddenly open area for foglights, or a DIY ram air sort of thing.
Second question is; would that, (the ram air), even be possible?? (Head over to the "Newbie wiring" thread for the explanation to my ignorance, and while your there, any help on the topic would be greatly appreciated too).
Thx folks.
My question is, would it be mo' better, (cooler, more preformance orientated, more.... better), to use the suddenly open area for foglights, or a DIY ram air sort of thing.
Second question is; would that, (the ram air), even be possible?? (Head over to the "Newbie wiring" thread for the explanation to my ignorance, and while your there, any help on the topic would be greatly appreciated too).
Thx folks.
Last edited by juxstapo; 04-28-2002 at 10:29 PM.
#14
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
part number for the fog light trim plate is 10095257, fog light switch is 10098778.
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