i have no idea what the problem is
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Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 218
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From: Toms River, NJ
i have no idea what the problem is
well i am on my 3rd altinator in 2 monts
one went after a year, then the next in 3 days then a month later and now i am on the last
first was on car when i got it, next 2 was from pepboys and now the last from R+S
what could be causing this problem? what could kill altinators really quick? maby just a bad case of crappy pepboys parts?
next when my turn signals blink the tack and the voltage guage needles jump with it. how do you stop this
-Stell
------------------
1988 IROC 305TPI MINT!!
Mods= Accell SuperCoil, MSD 6A, Ported Plenum, No MAF Screans
, K & N, 160 Thermostat+ Temp Switch
And Always Trying To Go Faster
one went after a year, then the next in 3 days then a month later and now i am on the last
first was on car when i got it, next 2 was from pepboys and now the last from R+S
what could be causing this problem? what could kill altinators really quick? maby just a bad case of crappy pepboys parts?
next when my turn signals blink the tack and the voltage guage needles jump with it. how do you stop this
-Stell
------------------
1988 IROC 305TPI MINT!!
Mods= Accell SuperCoil, MSD 6A, Ported Plenum, No MAF Screans
, K & N, 160 Thermostat+ Temp SwitchAnd Always Trying To Go Faster
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 2
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
The jumping needles in sync with the turn signal flashing are a result of low system voltage. If an alternator gets wet - like when washing out the engine compartment, it's life is greatly reduced. Is the battery OK? If it is drawing excessive current, that may lead to premature alternator failure, too.
Tim
Tim
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 2
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
The battery must be able to hold a charge, and run a high current load (the starter), and not draw continuous excessive current from a charger (or alternator). To measure the battery charging current draw you will need an (inductive) ammmeter. Most auto shops (& Autozone) should be able to test the battery for you.
Tim
Tim
Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: VANCOUVER, WA
It seems to me that you have a short in your wires. Make sur eyou check all wires going to the alternator and all wires coming from the Battery. Any type of singed or blackened wiring should be replaced (By blacking I mean burnt) I had the same problem. First time the alt was failing. Second time the guy at Napa clocked the alt wrong and it kept locking up. Stranded me quite a bit. Have your battery and alternator tested somewhere other than where you got the alt.
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John Chamberlain
1984 Sport Coupe Camaro, 1979 350. Dynomax 2 3/4" cat back single in dual out muffler. Saving for Headers, Heads, And new Intake. Then.... PAINT
The Allmighty Warrior Court Jester of The Not-So-Famous Cascade Crew
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John Chamberlain
1984 Sport Coupe Camaro, 1979 350. Dynomax 2 3/4" cat back single in dual out muffler. Saving for Headers, Heads, And new Intake. Then.... PAINT
The Allmighty Warrior Court Jester of The Not-So-Famous Cascade Crew
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