I own an 84 TA 4bbl HO. I was just wondering under what conditions the hood induction intake (the "power blister" buldge) opens up, and how to check if it is operating correctly. Thanks for any replies.

 

The hood actuator is an electromagnetic solenoid that is powered at WOT. If the '84 TA circuitry is anything like the '84 Camaro circuitry that cuts out the A/C compressor @ WOT, the ECM has an output on pin 6 that is grounded @ WOT. This output drives a relay coil (the other side of the coil is connected to terminal C, which is +12 volt ignition power) which powers the hood actuator solenoid.

Tim

 

So, it only works when it's floored... ok. I removed my AC compressor. Will the induction solenoid still work without this? And, how do I test to see if it still works... just use a multimeter? Thanks for any replies.

 

Removing the compressor should not affect the hood solenoid operation. Turn the ignition on without the motor running & put the accelerator @ WOT & the solenoid should energize. The ECM may also need to have the engine running to activate the solenoid - I am not sure - if so, take it out on the road with a volt meter connected to the solenoid & test it out.

Tim

 

Not to contradict, but mine is a little different on my '84...it has a constant +12V coming to it from the Choke Heater circuit, but the 12V had to go thru an oil pressure switch (?) and then a temp switch, which is in the back of the driver's side head. Basically once things warmed up, the power would be let thru up to a vacuum switch which is on the driver's side firewall, which would close under a low vac signal and let the power thru to the hood louver solenoid. There's a wiring diagram in the Haynes manual on page 243 showing all this. My vac switch was worn out and wouldn't close, so I just jettisoned the whole louver door assembly and now it's just constant cold air. If yours works, though, keep it-I just got frustrated with mine.

------------------
DR Stevens
Car #1: my ride
1984 TransAm
305HO(L69) 96K & counting
750 cfm Q-Jet/Holley rem.
K&N filter
700R4/Superior shift-kit
and trans cooler
3.42 rear/3.73 blew up!!
underdrive pulleys
Accel HEI Super-Coil
180 stat/hi flow water
pump/Jet fan switch
dual snorkel/'84 ram air
3" exhaust of some sort
partial emissions delete
Car #2: My wife's ride
1991 Firebird/Formula
305TBI(LO3) 99K & smoking
K&N air filter
Hypertech Chip
more engine mods later
"Hey, Uncle Sam!! Where's my f**king tax return??!!"

 

I have an 82 Z28 with the cross fire. The way I tested the induction was by putting the test key into the place where you check your codes, this must actavate the scoops because mine opens then.

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82 cross-fire, 410 gears
700r4

 

All contridictions are welcome......Thanks for clearing up the difference between the Camaro & TA hood control operation....

Tim

 

I have the 84 Trans Am too and I mucked around with the hood louvre for ages as the switch kept sticking and would sometimes work and sometimes not. I connected a bezal on my dash to alert me when the hood louvre was opening. You could feel the delay and then the power kick when it opened fully. I eventually removed the solenoid and took the moveble flap out of the louvre assembly and the performance of the car improved dramaticaly. I suggest you do the same. You wont be dissapointed. let that engine breath as their way to restricted with the hood louvre closed.

 

This is exactly what I did with mine after the solenoid fried, along with putting a gutted dual snorkel aircleaner bowl underneath the original louver lid. Car never accelerated better than it does now.

------------------
DR Stevens
Car #1: my ride
1984 TransAm
305HO(L69) 96K & counting
750 cfm Q-Jet/Holley rem.
K&N filter
700R4/Superior shift-kit
and trans cooler
3.42 rear/3.73 blew up!!
underdrive pulleys
Accel HEI Super-Coil
180 stat/hi flow water
pump/Jet fan switch
dual snorkel/'84 ram air
3" exhaust of some sort
partial emissions delete
Car #2: My wife's ride
1991 Firebird/Formula
305TBI(LO3) 99K & smoking
K&N air filter
Hypertech Chip
more engine mods later
"Hey, Uncle Sam!! Where's my f**king tax return??!!"

 

I think what you two did (removing the solenoid) is a great idea. I will do that. Thanks for the tip.

 

Don't forget to take the door flap out of the louvre assembly, thats the most important thing as without the solenoid it will be permanatly closed.Good driving!

------------------
84 Trans Am HO L69 WS6
5 Speed manual
Vortech Cherrybomb no cat
Removed A/C A.I.R. Hdflap
H/made cld air induction
K&N
Otherwise STD

 

Yeah, and also cap off that vac line that goes to the vac switch on the firewall, one less thing to leak.

DR

 

does anyone know the part # or where i can buy one of those vacuum switch's that sends the power to the hood flaps .From what im understanding most vacuum switch's complete the curcit when the vacuum is high. or does anyone know how to make the flaps work with a 89 ecu a 8647 if i remember correctly. is there something in the wiring that will ground at wot. or send 12 volts at wot.