1st my car wont shut off when i try and shut it off all the accesorises shut off but the car still runs its not deseling or anythign cause i coudl drive it all day like tha if i wanted to the only way to shut the car off is to pull the engine controll swich i checked the starter swich its not that another weird part of this mess is that if i hit my brakes with the car off my electric fan turns on and fi my ac is on that will turn on aswell .. i want to rip out my old alarm this week and check the wireing does anyone have any ideas where the problem could lie or give me some insite ?

HELLLLLLLP!!!

 

Start the car with the alternator disconnected (remove the connector on the rear or remove the belt). Now try turning off the car. What happens?

If, for some reason, the alternator is putting out voltage/current on the "F" terminal, that could power the car through the fan fuse I think. Power would leave the alternator through the "F" connector (applying +12 here allows the alternator to operate, or "turn on"), go through the fan 20 ampere fuse and then to the ignition circuitry.

EDIT:
FYI, the accessories are powered on a separate circuit than the "ignition" items, which would explain why turning the ignition key off would turn off the "accessories", and if the alternator is providing power to the "ignition" circuitry, why it would continue to run.

--this actually happened to me while "jerry-rigging" an alternator on a car in Central America. Using a diode here was the solution as it kept the reverse current from passing through to the ignition. Using a lightbulb or resistor would also have worked by providing the necessary voltage drop to keep the alternator from powering the car when turned off, but at the time only had a diode - acutally it was a transistor, but wired it to act like a diode. END EDIT

Actually, you should also be able to make this test by just removing the fan fuse.

If that's the problem, then either you have a bad voltage regulator or it's wired incorrectly. Since the alternator appears to be operating correctly, I'd first suspect incorrect wiring (from the rear alternator connector).

I have no idea why they fan(s) would come on when applying the brakes - that's a completly different circuit that really doesn't have anything in common to the ignition/alternator circuit (other than the battery...).

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 21, 2001).]

 

you know the wireing from the altinator to the battery to some fuse that i belive is for the comptuer went really bad the wires where coroded and shorted out so i fixed them up this is when the problem started i belive theres a fuseable link that i cant figure out what it is theres 2 wires entering it and 2 exiting oen of the four wires i cant figure out where it goes the other 2 are got o the altinator and some fuse belived to be the comptuer fuse if someone can help me wire this corretly insted of the guess work ive done it would be apreciated and might solve my problem? what do you think?

 

I'm sorry, but you lost me on that last one...

I think that this is one of those times that I'd need to be there to actually see it to fix it.

From what you stated, it sounds like major work will be needed on the bad wiring. The only thing I can suggest is to carefully work on one wire at a time.

Perhaps someone more talented than me will be able to help you.

Regrets,

//Stuart

 

The other guys idea about the diode is going in the right direction! If you have an older car like mine W/OUT the CS alternator then you have a seperate Voltage Regulator! If your voltage regulator is messed up then this could be causing your problems! Do you have a 5 pin module in your distributor by chance?? The problem you're referring too commonly occurs when an MSD 6A or 6AL is installed in a car with a 5 pin module in the distributor.... but can also happen with 7 pin modules! MSD sells a diode that is required to be wired in with the voltage regulator to stop this excess voltage and "run on" as it's called!!

Your problem is definitely somewhere in your voltage regulator or alternator.... both if you have the CS unit!

------------------
1986 Trans AM
305 TPI
Well over 200,000+ miles (speedo/odometer non-funtional! Odometer reads 142,000)
4 Wheel Discs
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
Completely Stock
Current Project: upgrade to a 355 TPI, 6" rods, 9.5:1 Compression, Stock TPI ported, 24#/hr LTI injectors, Hedman Shorty Headers, SBC Stock Casting heads pocket ported, Comp Cams XE262-14 TPI Cam, Ed Wright Fast Chip, Holley AFPR, TPIS airfoil, MSD wires, MSD 6-AL Box, Hypertech hot coil!!