Rear Hatch Motor Not Working ???
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Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 216
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From: Northern KY
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Rear Hatch Motor Not Working ???
I went to shut the rear hatch after putting some WD-40 on the two bolts for the rear passenger side ground effects (another story!) and when I lowered the hatch to the position so the motor would pull it down, NOTHING!!
After removing the rear panel that covers the latch assembly, I found the plexiglass housing that covers, I guess the motor, was broken and the plastic pieces that slide on the tracks were also broken.
Thanks in advance!
Update: The motor still works. When you push down on the metal tab/piece (down in the latch assembly) that the bar on the hatch comes in contact with it, the whole assembly moves up and down so I guess everything still works. What I dont understand is when I turn the key like you were opening the hatch, the latch does nothing. Is this because the lock bar on the hatch that goes down through the
latch assembly and makes contact with the black metal tab must goes further down in the latch assembly and contact something else to activate the latch that grabs the bar on the hatch? Man, this is hard to put into words
Should I just replace the plexiglass housing assuming you can still get one from the dealer and hope it works or should I just convert to a manual or non-motorized latch assembly. What all is involved? Can I use the existing latch assembly? Do I need a different lock cylinder?
Matt
[This message has been edited by Matt_Ky (edited July 17, 2001).]
After removing the rear panel that covers the latch assembly, I found the plexiglass housing that covers, I guess the motor, was broken and the plastic pieces that slide on the tracks were also broken.
Thanks in advance!
Update: The motor still works. When you push down on the metal tab/piece (down in the latch assembly) that the bar on the hatch comes in contact with it, the whole assembly moves up and down so I guess everything still works. What I dont understand is when I turn the key like you were opening the hatch, the latch does nothing. Is this because the lock bar on the hatch that goes down through the
latch assembly and makes contact with the black metal tab must goes further down in the latch assembly and contact something else to activate the latch that grabs the bar on the hatch? Man, this is hard to put into words

Should I just replace the plexiglass housing assuming you can still get one from the dealer and hope it works or should I just convert to a manual or non-motorized latch assembly. What all is involved? Can I use the existing latch assembly? Do I need a different lock cylinder?
Matt
[This message has been edited by Matt_Ky (edited July 17, 2001).]
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
well a used one is hard to find and year one wants 400 new.
if it still works and I think you are saying that your key will not open the trunk anymore I think it might be the cable that the lock cylinder (thats the part your key goes into) is broken or has slack.
I dont think this is your problem but I cant really tell from what you wrote.
consider yourself lucky because most people that have cracked motor housings are lucky to get the trunk to close at all.
let me know and Ill try to help more.
if it still works and I think you are saying that your key will not open the trunk anymore I think it might be the cable that the lock cylinder (thats the part your key goes into) is broken or has slack.
I dont think this is your problem but I cant really tell from what you wrote.
consider yourself lucky because most people that have cracked motor housings are lucky to get the trunk to close at all.
let me know and Ill try to help more.
Matt, Your hatch motor housing is avilable still from GM dealer ($26), So is the little plastic gear (gear nut $6 ). EVen though you guides are broken they might be reuseable, Each guide is actually 2 pieces of plastic held together by a thin extrusion. It only requires part of the guide to work , but they have to be either both inner or outer parts of the guide. . Also if your motor housing can be epoxied together, Reinforce it with plastic ties.
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