ok........ so here's the story
my engine wont run i've had a problem with a fuel pump ,the relay clicked but the pump wont run or respond to direct voltage so i replaced the pump, flter, relay,and checked the wiring and fuses.
hrere's what happened tell me what could have gone wrong
i've connected a jump wire from the grounding terminal , to the diagnostic terminal and when the check engine light didnt flash or anything ( there was no bulb at the socket)
i've tried to crank the engine(with the terminal still grounded - the result:
relay doesnt click (wiring ok),pump doesnt work unless i feed it directly 12V in whiuch case it works fine, and i still have spark.
'

and even if i feed the pump 12V and try to crank the engine same time it wont start either .........

ok........ what else do i need to check or do before i surender and tow it away to a garage in which they'll provably present me with a bill of over a 1000 $ (cdn.) and tell me the whole thing was messed up.

if ANYONE has ANY sujestions PLEASE IM OPEN TO ALL SUJESTIONS, just tell me what to check or how to fix it.....

you can check my previous posts about this problem at www.camaro.com its under general discussion.
but they couldent help me there s one guy sent me here he said you guys could provably help me out

i hope you can
thanks
88 camaro sc MPFI v6

PLEASE

 

Does the orange wire going into the relay have +12v on it ?

The test terminal for the FP has a different contacts for normal +12v power & +12 test power. If the orange wire on the relay has no power than there might be a chance that the fuse just off the battery has blown or there is a break in that circuit. The ECM is also spliced into that same orange wire for it's main power, if the fuse is blown, the ECM will also be dead in the water.

If that's not the case then next, with the Ignition in the 'run' position (but not running), check for +12v at the green/white stripe wire as well,, this is the relay drive wire from the ECM, if there's no power there you may want to check for a break in the circuit.

Neither may be the problem but, it's a place to start.

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neither the orange wire or the green wire have any voltage on them and so far all the fuses i've found were ok.
does the orange wire go to the relay directly from the battery or does it pass trough the comp.
because the wires going to to the relay from the computer ar ok ( not burned or anything) and i do have spark .
is there a way i could check if the ECM is the problem or a fuse that i dont know about ?????????
and the relay is new and i've checked it works so it couldent be the problem ....

anyway thanks for the help and i will try to continue looking for inline fuses ( if you know where to find them it would be helful)

thanks again , i hope you could help me solve this problem

 

If there is power on the large orange wires going to the ECM but not the relay than there is a problem with the power wire going to the relay. At a certain point, the FP relay, ECM, MAF & something else all join to a single orange power wire which runs directly to the battery. There is a fusable link (little black round thing) off the + terminal and shortly off that is a fuse holder (witin 1 foot off the battery), this is the power to the ECM & other crap.

Now,, don't quote me for this next statement because I can't remember if this it totally correct or not.

I believe if the Oil Pressure Switch goes bad on a FI car then it cuts the power to the FP. It's true function, I believe when it works correctly, is to cut power to the FP in the event the car drops under X-psi for oil pressure.

Going back to my original statement,, I believe I goofed in saying to check the green/white wire w/the ignition on,, regardless,, there will be no power to it until you start cranking the car. I was thinking about fan relays powering up w/the ignition,, the FP relay is grounded thru the ECM & the +12 is also supplied by it too. My bad,, sorry. So while cranking you should see power going to the relay on that wire.

I'm not positive if the oil press switch effects any other ECM activity other than cutting the FP signal. There's not much else I can think of that would keep the pump from kickin on when you crank the car.