Can someone tell me how to diasable the check engine light????
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 509
Likes: 1
From: N/a
Car: 1986 IROCZ
Engine: LB9....rebuilding coming soon
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Can someone tell me how to diasable the check engine light????
Its an 86 IROC and anytime I drive for 30 minutes or more it goes on and nothing is wrong with my engine and its very annoying and I just don't want it to work at all.any suggestions???
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Drive it like you stole it
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Drive it like you stole it
How do you know nothing is wrong with your engine? Have you extracted the codes from your computer? More likely than not something is going on that you may not be able to detect with everyday driving. Could be a MAF leak, bad IAT, bad oxygen sensor...or the dreaded bad computer.
take out the bulb inside or pull the wires off. and whats so dreaed about a bad computer there not that expensive or hard to change? i had to put a new one in min a year ago and the one i bought was just as bad as the first one so i had to change it again.
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89 Rs camaro
305 tbi
3in flowmaster muffler
manderal bent pipe
no cat
ELECTRONICS
viper alarm
pioneer 4-way 6x9's
15' orion sub in a bandpass box
150x1 kenwood amp
140watt aiwa head unit
[This message has been edited by silver89Rs (edited September 21, 2001).]
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89 Rs camaro
305 tbi
3in flowmaster muffler
manderal bent pipe
no cat
ELECTRONICS
viper alarm
pioneer 4-way 6x9's
15' orion sub in a bandpass box
150x1 kenwood amp
140watt aiwa head unit
[This message has been edited by silver89Rs (edited September 21, 2001).]
Like the other guy said...OF COURSE there's something wrong with your engine. Well, more specifically, there's something wrong with your engine's computer system.
That light can flash trouble codes, to tell you which part of the system is having trouble. There is a technical article on this site about how to do it. All you need is a pen, paper, a paper clip, and five minutes.
After that, though, you don't just go and replace the suspected part, unless it's cheap. You should first check all the wiring connection to that part.
From what I remember, if the light takes a long time to come on like that, it's likely to be the oxygen sensor, or maybe the throttle position sensor. Regardless, GM recommends replacing the oxygen sensor every 30,000 miles anyway, and most people don't bother. So if you bought the car used, it's a good idea to replace the sensor. They're cheap, but a real pain to replace sometimes.
A faulty oxygen sensor will also cause you to get lousy gas mileage. And a new sensor costs about the same as one tank of gas. So it wouldn't take too long to get a return on your investment.
At any rate, the last thing you want to do is "disable" the light, which you can easily do by taking the dash apart and removing the bulb.
That light can flash trouble codes, to tell you which part of the system is having trouble. There is a technical article on this site about how to do it. All you need is a pen, paper, a paper clip, and five minutes.
After that, though, you don't just go and replace the suspected part, unless it's cheap. You should first check all the wiring connection to that part.
From what I remember, if the light takes a long time to come on like that, it's likely to be the oxygen sensor, or maybe the throttle position sensor. Regardless, GM recommends replacing the oxygen sensor every 30,000 miles anyway, and most people don't bother. So if you bought the car used, it's a good idea to replace the sensor. They're cheap, but a real pain to replace sometimes.
A faulty oxygen sensor will also cause you to get lousy gas mileage. And a new sensor costs about the same as one tank of gas. So it wouldn't take too long to get a return on your investment.
At any rate, the last thing you want to do is "disable" the light, which you can easily do by taking the dash apart and removing the bulb.
that's kind of butch, isn't it? Drilling the dash?
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Jeff
'85 Berlinetta, Special Beater Edition
Mods include a 4bolt 350 with 280*, .460 lift cam, Vortec heads, Comp Cams roller tip rockers, Edelbrock TES headers, no other exhaust
. Also, rusted parts on all 4 corners, and crumpled fenders, thanks to the previous owner.
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Jeff
'85 Berlinetta, Special Beater Edition
Mods include a 4bolt 350 with 280*, .460 lift cam, Vortec heads, Comp Cams roller tip rockers, Edelbrock TES headers, no other exhaust
. Also, rusted parts on all 4 corners, and crumpled fenders, thanks to the previous owner. Thread
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