My car came with power locks, but they have never really worked properly. They basically lock and unlock the doors about halfway, such that the mechanism is obviously somewhat working, however it doesn't actually work. It makes the noise like it worked, the lock moves halfway in one direction or the other, but it doesn't actually lock or unlock lie it's supposed to. Where do you think the problem lies? I'm hoping it's just something that needs to be adjusted or lubricated but not actually replaced.

 

You have to replace the lock plundger inside the door (they wear out). If that still doesnt do, (but it should), then replace the little 2 button switch.

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1991 Z-28 350 TPI, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, 2400 stall, B&M Console Megashifter, 4th gen power seats, MSD6A, Blaster2 Coil, Holley 58mm TB, Ram-air, MSD 8.5 super conductor wires, Flowmaster catback, Crane rollers, march pulleys, and all free mods. (Currently in body shop getting fresh paint!!) I miss her! =(

 

Pull off the door panels. Clean and lube all the linkage points. Also you may find the rod that manually locks the doors binding or rubbing on the inside of the door panel. If this doesn't solve it, then yes replace the solenoids. The switches are fine if they are energizing the solenoids at all. But it is common for these to crack and break also. They are relatively cheap from Classic Industries or GM.

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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040

http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

 

are they hard to replace? mine are doing the same thing.

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16

 

Switches are a piece of cake to replace. You don't even need to take the door panel off to replace them. The loking solenoids are a bit more trouble. They have a funky nut that breaks off at the correct installation torque. You have to drill, Dremel or cold chisel these off to get the solenoid off. Then attach the new one with a nut & bolt I presume. I've only removed the solenoids from a spare door to date. I haven't installed one yet. The tough part is getting your hands in there to get them out. The window does have to be up to get at them. Which can be a problem if equipped with electric windows and no power source. I'd start with cleaning and lubing the latching mechanism first though. Also there was a change (in 89 I believe) from using a plastic mesh to a solid plastic channel that the latch rod that goes to the manual lock button rests in behind the door panel. It has a little less friction. If yours is the older style you can convert yours over. We did this for a friends car and it corrected his problem. Good luck, Lon.

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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040

http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm