electric hatch switch doesn't work and i dont have the key
electric hatch switch doesn't work and i dont have the key
this car im fixing has no key for the rear hatch or doors just the ignition. but the other problem is that the switch for the hatch dosnt work either. fuzes are fine to. it would be great if you could help.
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From: Northern NJ
Car: 89 Formula / 09 G8
Engine: LS1 / LS3
Transmission: M6 / M6
Axle/Gears: 3:42 / 3:27
FYI:
If the car is running or ingnition is on, the ebrake must be on in order for the switch to be operational.
First check the switch to make sure it isn't bad. I don't think that there is a way to open it with out the key then. Well.. unless you smash the lock and the center section of the lights, and i don't think you want to do that.
You will have to get a key cut for the door locks. I think that you can get them from GM.
Can you pick locks?
If the car is running or ingnition is on, the ebrake must be on in order for the switch to be operational.
First check the switch to make sure it isn't bad. I don't think that there is a way to open it with out the key then. Well.. unless you smash the lock and the center section of the lights, and i don't think you want to do that.
You will have to get a key cut for the door locks. I think that you can get them from GM.
Can you pick locks?
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Omega:
FYI:
If the car is running or ingnition is on, the ebrake must be on in order for the switch to be operational.</font>
FYI:
If the car is running or ingnition is on, the ebrake must be on in order for the switch to be operational.</font>
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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System
My friend's '88 GTA, with automatic, still requires that the parking brake be applied to release the trunk.
Pop out the switch and have a look at it. If it just has two thick wires... apply 12 volts to one wire, and then the other... trunk should pop open if it still works.
If it has small wires, there's a separate relay... remove the hush panel from under the passenger dash and it's up in there somewhere. But you'll probably need a multimeter to check if the relay is bad.
Also, you don't need the trunk key to open the hatch in an F-body. At the junkyard, I was able to crawl into the hatch, use a quarter to unfasten the panels back there, and I could flex it aside enough to reach in there. At least on the older cars, you can release the hatch with your finger once you get in there.
Pop out the switch and have a look at it. If it just has two thick wires... apply 12 volts to one wire, and then the other... trunk should pop open if it still works.
If it has small wires, there's a separate relay... remove the hush panel from under the passenger dash and it's up in there somewhere. But you'll probably need a multimeter to check if the relay is bad.
Also, you don't need the trunk key to open the hatch in an F-body. At the junkyard, I was able to crawl into the hatch, use a quarter to unfasten the panels back there, and I could flex it aside enough to reach in there. At least on the older cars, you can release the hatch with your finger once you get in there.
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