Okay, well. Finally 'fixed' the temperature gauge.. i did what somebody else said they did, and put a wire across the screws to make a "block" (When the needle would ground out at start, it would get stuck)

i painted the wire black and boom. works fine, really hard to see


Few things still need fixed, though.
The blower on high speed. My dad bypassed the relay, and the blower worked on high. So it must either be 1) The relay 2) an in-line fuse

now, does anyone know how to go about testing the relay, to make sure it works?
-secondly, does anyone know where this fuse is located? I tried following the wire(red, coming out of relay), and I can't find it. anyone know a relative position to the engine?


Looking around the engine bay.. I've noticed that.. well.. there are a couple of things just not plugged in.
One is near the blower motor/blower relay. there's one wire that sticks out of the black tube that is protecting all of these wires. The connector looks like the same plug that you use to plug into the blower...

Another wire is on the opposite side of the bay, near the center.. it's just a harness.. no idea what this harness is for at all. Havn't found anything major that doesn't work.. so.. i guess it's no biggy for now.

It also turns out the power mirror works! (Not sure how this happend.. i guess it just started wanting to move) crazy, i say. But that's just good news. :lala:

Thanks

 

The relay is powered directly from the main lug of the starter and has a fusible link inline on the wire (a part that would have to be spliced back in to replace it). At the relay, the power wire off the starter is sometimes usually red and heavier gauge than the other wires (aside from the purple that runs to the blower motor).
At the relay, regardless of wire color, at least one of the heavier gauge wires should have a constant +12v on it. If none of them have +12v, the fusible link has been smoked and needs replaced. Just a guess tho..

 

ok, i took a wire, put it to the battery, and to the blower itself (while on high) and it turned on.

i also took the wire, and put it in the relay with the RED, and the other side with the purple, and the blower turned on, again

.. anyone know if that would mean the relay was the problem, or what?

 

If the jumper powered up the fan using either power wire (heavy gauge red and/or purple) on the relay while the switch is on 'hi', that's a good sign the relay is working properly.
If you switched the controls over to 'off' or the fan speed switch off of 'hi', only 1 of the wires will make the fan work using the jumper (as a guess I'd imagine it would be the red one).
Whichever wire does not spin the blower will be the wire that runs to your starter (the other is the lead to the fan).
Using a voltmeter or a rigged up test light, check the, we'll just say red for now, wire to see if it has any signs of life (preferably something around +12v), if there is no voltage on that wire, the fusible link probably took a dive and will need to be replaced.

 

the red one seemed to have the +12v all the time.

so the red IS getting power.. and if i jump the purple and red wires together, the blower turns on.

might be the relay, then?

also, when i switch it over to "VENT".. no air comes out of the vents.

the air comes out of the front defogger..

 

Alrighty then.. try this. The other (smaller gauge) wires on the relay, black and.....um.. something.. green ?, doesn't matter, the black is the ground for the relay leaving the last wire (yellow ?.. ah screw it) being the one to power the relay to make it switch.
If you take your jumper from the heavy red to the (orange ?) one small gauge wire that isn't black, this should make the relay 'click' and turn the blower on full speed regardless of the car bein on or not.
If the relay/blower switches on, you know the relay works then. That would only leave one thing left and that is that the (I'm out of colors sorry.. ) colored wire is not carrying +12v from the fan switch to the relay to make it turn on.
With the car on, put the blower switch on 'hi' and check the colored small ga. wire for +12v. If it doesn't have any voltage, your culprit is that wire or the fan switch itself.
If that's not it... you're screwed because I'm out of ideas

W/o the engine running, there is only a very small amout of reserve vacuum to switch which vents the air blows out of.

 

ahaha; nice "out of colors" remark

So you think if the car is on, the vents will work, eh?

I'll try it

 

Funny.. i took pictures of the colored wires.. yet i didn't see any on the camera's disk

the relay has black/red/purple/orange

So far:
Red has constant voltage (Fuse is good)
I connected the red and orange, and the relay clicked. (relay works)
Jumped red and purple (Blower works)

.. ummm


I've read some posts about the Vents.. and like some of them say, I hear a hissing noise from the heater controls.

something about the vacuum ... not sure what to do as there are too many posts i have to read to find someone who goes into detail about what to do


also; here are pictures of wires that don't go anywhere..
on the right side of the engine bay..

TOP MIDDLE you will see it


Closeup of it


Second/third wire:


There's one up top, that's round. it doesn't go anywhere (blue wire)

and there's another by the black support rod, which doesn't go anywhere

I don't see ANY other wires that would plug into these

anyone have any advice?

 

This isn't going to be detailed (for beverage reasons ) but, the engine has to be running for the vents to change where they blow from. They are operated by vacuum (produced by the engine) and when the engine is off, there is only a minute amount of vacuum held in the HVAC system to make it operate. Once the "reserve" vacuum is used up, they vent flaps will not operate. That's as good as I'm doing for now sorry...

 

Ok, the pink and brown wire connector looks like the one that goes to the manifold air temp sensor (bottom of the plenum) and the other might be the one for the EGR feedback switch (located on the front of the egr valve)

 

dead: Yeah, i tried it with the car on, and the vents still didn't work :/ And i heard the hissing


morley: what does EGR stand for?

what do you think would be affected from these being disconnected?

 

EGR= exhaust gas recycle, it takes combustion gasses and recirculates them back to the intake to lower combustion temps to prevent knock.

Without the temp sensor hooked up the ecm won't know when to schedule EGR and without the diagnostic switch being hooked up the ecm never gets the signal that the egr valve opened.