I've got an '89 IROC-Z 350 TPI. Lately, the car has been chewing up ignition modules. They have been Wells replacements from Autozone. I had put an Accel module in, but that caused so much hate and discontent in it I replaced it with the Wells unit. The car then ran fine. Lately, the car will start just fine when cold. After it's been run, started, and stopped, the car will not start. It won't crank, NOTHING. I don't even hear the starter solenoid engaging, and I replaced it less than 3 months ago. Usually, if I took the distributor cap off and pulled out the module to cool it off, it would start. Last night, it wouldn't even do that. I was thinking loose wire somewhere or something, but after working on it for about 2 hours I had just about had it. In one last effort, I turned the key and the damn thing decided it wanted to start.

I have had some issues with charging, even after putting in a 140 amp alternator. I'm not sure where the problem is though. The lights and the aftermarket SPAL fans put a pretty good drain on the system.

What do you guys think is wrong with my car???

 

I had a problem similar to this on my '89 IROC - sometimes it wouldn't start unless the steering wheel was moved or the column was tilted. It turned out to be the VATS wiring in the steering column, which were all chewed because of a previous *** hat owner not knowing what s/he was doing. The mechanic simply disabled VATS by not rewiring it in the steering column. I hope this helps or gives you some ideas anyway.

- 89_IROC

 

Well, I've narrowed it down to somewhere in the ignition column, or maybe a fusible link connected to the starter solenoid. I replaced the coil today with an MSD unit. The almost new Accel one was beginning to move around in the housing. I won't buy Accel again, since this was my second coil from them. This time, the car was run and stopped about 5 times. Got in the 6th time, and no start. I had power, but no cranking and no solenoid click. So, I just put in a remote starter trigger. Hit the trigger and BAMM, she fired right up. This suggests to me that it's not VATS, and I've learned that on an '89, VATS disabled the injectors only. Now I'll just have to find the problem. Until I do, it's nice to have a way to start the thing instead of waiting for doomsday.

 

Interesting info...I didn't know that about the injectors on an '89. Learn something new every day, huh?

Glad you found a temporary workaround

- 89_IROC

 

Incorrect, the VATS on an 89 uses a starter enable relay as well as controlling injector pulsing. The correct PASS key does 2 things when the VATS module reads it, it enables the starter relay located in the driver side kick panel and allow fuel injector operation.

 

Really? I must have misread the post I found on here in regards to the VATS then. Hmmm....

Having said that, would you think VATS would be a suspect in my case, since I can route around the ignition and start the car anyways? I mean, the injectors are obviously pulsing since I can get the car to start!

 

I would have to say that the VATS is not your problem here since you are getting a good pulse to the injectors. I have some information on the VATS that I will e-mail you and you can read it over and see if it will help you.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks for the email trickster...good stuff in there. Just when I thought I had the problem temporarily corrected, it gets worse. I had run a remote starting unit directly from the battery to the starter solenoid. Today, the car didn't want to start. So, I get out and hit the trigger. NOTHING. No click, no vroom, no fire. Call me a genious, but I'm thinking that 2 1/2 month old solenoid has about had it. Now here's a question that somebody needs to help me with:

There is something like 4 or 5 wires that connect to the solenoid. Which go where? Terminal "s" and "t", and then the one that gets the positive battery cable. Maybe I messed the wires up when I replaced that solenoid, and that is what the problem is. Anybody help with that?

 

Just to post this so somebody with the same problem can find the answer....

After replacing the solenoid, the same thing happened, even after putting battery power directly to the solenoid. The only thing I could come up with was something is wrong with the starter itself. Possibly heat soak, but I've never experienced that before. So, I got another starter, wrapped it with some heat shield, and have not had a problem yet. I'm still keeping my fingers crossed though!