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Ignition lock cylinder question

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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 10:19 PM
  #1  
Need4Speed1387's Avatar
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Ignition lock cylinder question

So, as i understand, to get out the ignition lock cylinder, i have to have it in the run position. well, i wouldn't be replacing my lock cylinder if i had my keys, so how in the hell would i go about removing it without the key? thanks!!
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 11:26 PM
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From: The Wastelands of Minnesota
Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 1991 305 TBI
Transmission: Th700-R4
no, we had our cylinder replaced while the car was still in the impound lot... it does not need to be in run
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 08:33 PM
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Im still not able to get that damn thing out. finally got my steering wheel adapter thingy out, took the lock plate off, took the upper right screw out, and the thing feels kinda loose, but won't pull out or anything. In the picture i have from an ALLDATA program at school, the screw looks about twice the size than what it really is. Am i taking out the right screw? the one (of the three) that holds the turn signal cam dealie down. or is it the one behind that with the torx head on it? Someone who has done this help me out here.

thanks
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 09:11 PM
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Well hello Need4Speed1387,

How have you been doing lately? I thought that I had sent you this information once before in a post concerning VATS. If not, it is in your e-mail box now. Good luck with it.
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 09:17 PM
  #5  
Need4Speed1387's Avatar
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
hey man thanks for the info, the key is non-VATS if it matters any in the removal. i have pretty much that same picture and it still doesn't help any. All the directions for ignition lock cylinder removal say to turn key to run. What if i can't?!?!?!?!
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 09:39 PM
  #6  
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
It doesn't matter if the key is VATS or not, the procedure is still the same. No the key does not neccessarily have to be in the run position (kind of hard to do if you don't have the key). Just remove that one torx bit screw at about the three o'clock position and the KEY WARNING BUZZER SWITCH and then pull the lock cylinder out. You can use a paper clip to remove the buzzer switch but be carefull doing it.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 11:08 PM
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From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
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Originally posted by Need4Speed1387
Im still not able to get that damn thing out. finally got my steering wheel adapter thingy out, took the lock plate off, took the upper right screw out, and the thing feels kinda loose, but won't pull out or anything. In the picture i have from an ALLDATA program at school, the screw looks about twice the size than what it really is. Am i taking out the right screw? the one (of the three) that holds the turn signal cam dealie down. or is it the one behind that with the torx head on it? Someone who has done this help me out here.

thanks
You have to remove the signal light switch.Then remove the key warning buzzer switch(its the two thin metal arms on the right side of the column(about the 2"oclock mark)they are held in place in white plastic housing.Just below the housing is a small retainer spring.Use needle nose pliers to remove the retainer spring.Then the buzzer switch will slide out.Behind it is a blackish phillips screw.Remove it & your lock cylinder will come off.DONT have to remove the 3 big silver screws(i believe they are torx type) to remove the lock cylinder.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 08:54 PM
  #8  
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From: Las Vegas
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Originally posted by Need4Speed1387
the one (of the three) that holds the turn signal cam dealie down. or is it the one behind that with the torx head on it?
You've probably already gotten it by now, but in case you haven't, off position, and it's the one with the torx head right under the lock cylinder. And like already pointed-out, you have to remove the small clip-like switches(the tone warning buzzer) to get a clear shot at that screw.

I've done this a few times enroute to tightening-up my steering column at the tilt mechanism. So if you're having any loose column problems, now would be a good time to go a bit deeper to do that, too.
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 04:41 PM
  #9  
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From: Jacksonville, Tx
Car: 91 RS, 00 TA Ram Air, 86 IROC
Engine: 305 tbi, LS1, 355
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 700R4 NonLU
Mine did not want to come out either. I had to pull some extra slack for the wires on mine (91 RS) and then the switch came out, but I suppose those are the vats wires.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 08:50 AM
  #10  
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Ignition lock cylinder question

Originally Posted by triska
Remove the dashboard's lower cover and the steering column covers to reach the ignition switch. The ignition switch's connector should already be unplugged if you removed the switch. Hope it helps.
Triska, He is removing the lock cylinder in the steering column and not the ignition switch which is located on the steering column under the dash.
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