Ok, did a tbi to carb swap and now I need help wiring in the fuel pump. Would it be easier to wire the fuel pump relay or just the fuel pump? On the ALDL, how do you plug in the wire to the G connection? Do you just push in the wire or is there a plug that needs to be installed? Also from what I've gathered the grey wire that comes in from the rear of the car and travels along the drivers side is for the pump correct? Then the wire for the relay is orange or tan/white?

 

Since your carb should have enough fuel to start you can wire the pump to an oil pressure cut off so when the car dies the pump shuts off. Then wire a bypass switch to provide power in case you need it. And yes the gray wire is for the pump, I just did a hot wire for the pump on my Formula to test it because it was not coming on.

 

You definitely want to keep the Fuel Pump Relay, otherwise you'll go through Fuel Pump fuses much more quickly. The relay will help reduce any overload from the battery.

From the relay, the thick Orange wire runs to the battery (constant power), the thin Black/White wire is the relay's ground, the Green/White is the relay's 12 volt source (key on power), the thick Tan/White is the Fuel Pump Power wire (leading to the tank), and the thinner Orange wire is the ALDL wire (fuel pump diagnostic check).....

The thick Tan/White wire (fuel pump power), and the thin Orange wire (ALDL wire) both by-pass the ECM, then connect into different color coded wires through a clear connector (on the connector, there found on terminals B & D).

If you're planning on keeping the ECM in-tact, then all that is necessary is to find another 12 volt (key on) source for the Green/White wire coming from the Fuel Pump Relay (which originally went to the ECM), as well as find another ground source for the Black/White wire from the relay (which too was originally led o the ECM)....

If you pulled the harness out, and tossed the ECM, then the procedure is still the same.... however, you'll need to re-route some new wiring to their respected locations.

Good Luck

 

Sweet, thanks for the help. I Finally got it hooked up.

 

Cool!

Here's a few tips to help, cuz I did the same type of swap;

If you're running an electric choke, then re-direct the ALDL wire (from the fuse pump relay), to the Carb.

If you can't find a seperate 12 volt source for the Green/White wire (also from the fuse pump relay), there is a Red/Black wire that can be used for this very purpose (key on) that can be found on those two connectors that connect to the clear connector that by-passes the ECM.

There are actually two of those Black/Red wires found on that connector under the ECM, that are powered only in "key-on" position.... making the other one ideal for the electric fan relay's 12 volt key-on source.....

Remember that the fuel pump will definitely not overheat and burn out, as long as you're utilizing a return styled AFPR (I'm using 3/8's delivery and 5/16's return.... which is stock for the TPI fuel lines, and after many hard runs, and driving it everyday, there is absolutely no leakage, and she fires right up every morning)....

Good Luck, Again!

 

Double Post, Disregard.

 

Well this is what I did, and it seems to be working ok now.

 

Well as long as it's working, that's a great way to do it. I only mentioned what I did, mainly because with the ECM out (or disconnected), the wiring that you're splicing into is now subject to the entire ECM's unused harness.... and if a wire from the unused harness (not necessarily being used, but still though is connected anyways) accidentally get's pinched or cut, then you'll have a volt leak, and this will either burn the pump fuse or the relay itself.

If you're definitely not going back to the ECM in the future, you might want to consider re-routing the wiring seperate from the ECM harness....and position the Fuel Pump Relay under the dash somewhere (keeping it away from the elements)....

This, of course, is just my .02 cents.