Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

LS1 Alternator specs/Pics?

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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
Com_VC's Avatar
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From: Australia
LS1 Alternator specs/Pics?

Hi all,

Just wonder how much amps the LS1 alternator puts out and what brand it is? Also if anyone has any pics of the alternator then that would be great.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 27, 2004 | 05:27 AM
  #2  
Danno's Avatar
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From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
The LS1 uses the CS 130D unit. It is made by Delphi Automotive Systems and is a better unit than the straight 130 used on 86 and up TG's. Earlier TG's used the Si alt. If you go back on the board here I wrote an article about a 130 to 130D conversion, I did it on my 89. It solves many of the problems that the 130 suffered from and is very easy to service, all components are accessible from the rear. Typically the "D" was either in 100 or 105 amp versions, the big Yukons and Suburbans had a 140 amp unit as an option. The D has a more aggressive charging curve and is better cooled internally than the 130. I had a 140 amp "Iceberg" unit on my 89 and a 130d 105 amp unit works better, no more tach bouncing with the turn signals and headlights on. PM me if you want more info, there are a couple of things you need to know before changing.
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 06:14 PM
  #3  
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From: WPB, FL
Car: '89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: TPI350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: BW 3.27s
Originally posted by Danno
no more tach bouncing with the turn signals and headlights on.
I've got this problem, along with the A/C and heater fan, power windows (when in use), and my brake lights causing it too. I need to rewire the light connectors cause I think there's alot of resistance at the end of those connections. This is just at idle, when I'm crusing it holds at least 13v.

Now there's a 3-wire connector on my alternator, but only 2 are hooked up. My alternator is charging, and my battery doesn't die on me. Maybe 1 of the wires is for a connection to the ECM? Even if I change over to the 130D unit, should I still resolve the brake light issue or should I just swap out the alternator? Please include any details I will need for this swap. Thanks

- Luke
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 06:20 AM
  #4  
Danno's Avatar
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From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
First, if you are refferring to the top plug there should be 2 wires in use. The socket on the alt should have 3-4 pins. The red plug wire is always on 12 volts, the lighter guage tan/brn wire is key controlled and turns the alt on and off. I'll be as brief as possible, depending on what year D alt you get there are some things you need to know. 98 and up the alt is PCM controlled, the wires use 5 volts and about 2-3 volts for the sense. That type of reg is completely incompatible. GM currently uses about 12 different regulators for late model PCM controlled alts. You must know the year the alt is. Second is clocking, or how the connections and mounting line up. Reclocking a D is a bitch since the stator is pressed into the front housing, not sandwitched like the straight 130. My suggestion is to go to an alt repair shop and tell them what you want to do. I wound up using a regulator for a 97 blazer, it needs only 1 wire to the plug with a resistor in series with it, about 500 ohms. Also you need a different plug. You cut and leave the red wire unused and you will use the tan/brn wire with the resistor. The rear lug is different also, your should have a machine screw the D has a nut to fasten it.
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