I just finished rebuiding and installing a 350 TPI in my '85 IROC(not original motor, I know). The engine knocked when I bought it so I rebuilt it. Anywho, when I try to start it, it acts like the battery is dead. It turns over for about a second then stops completely. With the key on, it shows only around 9 volts. I have 3 ground wires connected to the head on the passenger side and 2 connected to the head on the driver's side. I don't remember disconnecting the ones on the driver's side but I'm pretty sure they are ground wires. Am I missing a wire somewhere? I did put the heads back on different sides so maybe there is paint around the bolt holes and those ground wire's aren't making good contact? Any ideas?

 

Where did you put the ground wire from the battery? How did you adjust the valve lash on the rockers?

 

The ground wire from the battery went to the alternator bracket where it was before. I haven't adjusted the valve lash yet. I was going to do it with the car running by backing off until they ticked then tightening until ticking stopped and tightening another 1/2-3/4 turn.

 

Have you tried it with a different battery or with a battery charger hooked to the battery?

 

I took that battery out of my '86 IROC and it was fine. I also put the battery back in the '86 and it fired right up showing 14 volts.

 

That is definitely a huge power drain. Have you checked the grounding points that you mentioned earlier. On your valves, try backing them off about 1/8 to 1/4 turn and see if that helps.

 

My dad just got home with some sandpaper to try to clean up the contact area for those grounds. I'll check the grounds with a test light to see if they are good. I'm not sure what the valve lash has to do with the low voltage, could you explain that a little for me please?

Thanks for your help!

 

If the valve lash is too tight, it makes it harder for the engine to turn and takes more power attempting it.

 

That makes sense I guess, but with the key in the on position, not trying to crank it but just on, it only shows 9 volts. Shoudn't it show 14 volts with the key in the on position regardless of the valve lash?

 

No, it should only show about 12 volts or a little over. It should show 14 volts with the engine running. Now is that 9 volts showing at the battery or at the gauge in the car?

 

The 9 volts is at the gauge in the car. I have a cheap multimeter but I'm not exactly sure how to use it. I tested the grounds with a test light and they are fine. I'm starting to wonder if my friend missed a wire while hooking up the starter. From up top I can see two wires connected to the larger terminal and I'm not sure but think there is only 1 wire connected to the small terminal on the starter.

 

No way, no how, no such thing sorry to say.

 

Which portion of it AM Racer, the harder to turn portion or the more power portion. If it's the more power portion, I stand corrected. A buddy of mine replaced the lifters and rockers on his car and not knowing any better cranked the rockers as tight as he could. That engine only rotated a couple of inches and the new rods had a slight bend to them

 

The pushrods will bend when the valves are pushed up against the piston tops. The higher current draw was created from the force used to "peen" the valves over.
Valve lash itself has has no bearing on the amount of power needed to turn the engine over.

 

Everything is hooked up correctly at the starter. I don't know where to go now. Anybody have any more ideas? I'll be working 12hr 3rd shifts all weekend so I probably won't be on again until Monday but keep the ideas coming please.