Car does not start by turning key. Trickster, help!
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Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Car does not start by turning key. Trickster, help!
So I've had this problem for a while now, but it's just now getting on my nerves. When I start my car, I use a remote starter switch. Well, actually I rub some wires together (+12v to the S-terminal, remotely) because the physical switch burned off from heat. I need the car to start the way it's supposed to. 
- I do not have VATS, as it was disabled on the chip from Brian at tbichips.com
- I replaced the starter-enable relay (aka anti-theft relay) twice now, and it has started ONE TIME with the "old" new one. It won't start with the "new" new one.
I have no idea what else the problem could be. When I turn the key, the radio turns off and on again, just like it should. There is no clicking, nothing. I properly installed the relay (twice) and I'm fairly knowledgable with the electronics of my car, having had to find a starting problem before. I wonder if I am possibly frying my relays (however the "new" new one never made any clicking noise, nor delivered the power to the starter, and I was garaunteed it not to be DOA by the part store). I am clueless now. I haven't been staring at my schematics, but I'm pretty sure I've done all I can do. Next idea is to check the ground wires... but seeing as I haven't touched them I don't think they are at fault.
What else do I do?

- I do not have VATS, as it was disabled on the chip from Brian at tbichips.com
- I replaced the starter-enable relay (aka anti-theft relay) twice now, and it has started ONE TIME with the "old" new one. It won't start with the "new" new one.
I have no idea what else the problem could be. When I turn the key, the radio turns off and on again, just like it should. There is no clicking, nothing. I properly installed the relay (twice) and I'm fairly knowledgable with the electronics of my car, having had to find a starting problem before. I wonder if I am possibly frying my relays (however the "new" new one never made any clicking noise, nor delivered the power to the starter, and I was garaunteed it not to be DOA by the part store). I am clueless now. I haven't been staring at my schematics, but I'm pretty sure I've done all I can do. Next idea is to check the ground wires... but seeing as I haven't touched them I don't think they are at fault.
What else do I do?
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 12
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Hey Token,
Was just thinking about you the other day. How did the final exams go. On the starting problem, where did you get the new starter relay from? The reason I ask is because I have checked a lot of stores and none of them carry that item or even know what it is. Have you tried disconnecting the relay and jumpering pins "A" & "E". Another area to check is pin "F" of the Park/Neutral switch to see if it is getting power from the starter enable relay when you turn the key. Good luck!!!
Was just thinking about you the other day. How did the final exams go. On the starting problem, where did you get the new starter relay from? The reason I ask is because I have checked a lot of stores and none of them carry that item or even know what it is. Have you tried disconnecting the relay and jumpering pins "A" & "E". Another area to check is pin "F" of the Park/Neutral switch to see if it is getting power from the starter enable relay when you turn the key. Good luck!!!
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo, Tx
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: 355TPI 380hp
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r w/ Transgo Shift Kit
Mine had pretty much the same symptoms and it turned out to be the ignition switch on the steering column under the dash. Try lowering the tilt wheel all the way down and then try to start it. If it starts, you found the problem, if not, at least you illiminated something.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Trickster
Hey Token,
Was just thinking about you the other day. How did the final exams go. On the starting problem, where did you get the new starter relay from? The reason I ask is because I have checked a lot of stores and none of them carry that item or even know what it is. Have you tried disconnecting the relay and jumpering pins "A" & "E". Another area to check is pin "F" of the Park/Neutral switch to see if it is getting power from the starter enable relay when you turn the key. Good luck!!!
Hey Token,
Was just thinking about you the other day. How did the final exams go. On the starting problem, where did you get the new starter relay from? The reason I ask is because I have checked a lot of stores and none of them carry that item or even know what it is. Have you tried disconnecting the relay and jumpering pins "A" & "E". Another area to check is pin "F" of the Park/Neutral switch to see if it is getting power from the starter enable relay when you turn the key. Good luck!!!
Exams sucked, but EMU is too expensive for me- I'm going to take classes at a community college until I can get out of debt and back on track to see what I want to do. I'll be taking some auto mechanics classes (auto tech I, paint and body repair, etc) along with some mechanical engineering courses.
Anyway- I got both relays from Autozone. They were known as the "anti-theft" relay on their computer, and I think was the exact same part number as the fan switch relay. Which pins are what? Mine just has numbers and not letters for its connections. My remote start wire is "plugged into" the purple wire on the neutral safety switch- I should try it on the green wire shouldn't I? Or at least test to see if there's a connection being made there.
Originally Posted by jgifford
Mine had pretty much the same symptoms and it turned out to be the ignition switch on the steering column under the dash. Try lowering the tilt wheel all the way down and then try to start it. If it starts, you found the problem, if not, at least you illiminated something.
Right now I am using my 8awg amp wire to jump the starter via the neutral safety switch. I was previously using the window up/down switch to do it, since it would only provide +12v with the key on, but it wasn't thick enough to carry enough current- it got hot fast. I decided not to burn up the wiring, and I am using my amp wire (seeing as I dont have the amp in my car anymore).
Oh well, we will get to the bottom of it! Trickster has fixed every one of my problems before!!
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 12
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Okay, the wiring for pin "A" & "E" of you Anti-Theft Relay should be DARK GREEN for pin "A" and YELLOW for pin "E". The yellow wire for pin "E" comes off the ignition switch and the dark green wire at pin "A" goes to pin "F" of the park/neutral switch. If you have numbers on the connector then it should be pin "1" & "5" with "1" being "A" & "5" as "E".
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Trickster
Okay, the wiring for pin "A" & "E" of you Anti-Theft Relay should be DARK GREEN for pin "A" and YELLOW for pin "E". The yellow wire for pin "E" comes off the ignition switch and the dark green wire at pin "A" goes to pin "F" of the park/neutral switch. If you have numbers on the connector then it should be pin "1" & "5" with "1" being "A" & "5" as "E".
Okay, the wiring for pin "A" & "E" of you Anti-Theft Relay should be DARK GREEN for pin "A" and YELLOW for pin "E". The yellow wire for pin "E" comes off the ignition switch and the dark green wire at pin "A" goes to pin "F" of the park/neutral switch. If you have numbers on the connector then it should be pin "1" & "5" with "1" being "A" & "5" as "E".
I'll check when the weather is better
it's going to rain any minute
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