Wired with painless...won't start
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From: Chicago
Car: Only a daily driver, but comin home
Engine: I have one that runs ;)
Transmission: Caged hamster that runs really fast
Axle/Gears: They are round, I know that much
Wired with painless...won't start
I felt this would get the answer I want in this forum over the TPI, but if the mods want to move it go ahead. Here I go....
Just rewired a 91 Z28 305 TPI Map system. I bought the car with a painless wiring harness cause the original one(BTW the car started and drove, but would short out if a bump was hit) was shot, and with the kit came a VATS bypass module, which was also wired in. After all that I went to start the car and nothing, the fuel pump kicked on, pressurized, and shut off like it should, but when I went to the crank position, nothing, not even a click.
The purple wire to the "S" terminal on the starter has no shorts, replaced the fuse even though it wasn't blown, and still nothing. Now when the key is in the run position the SES light and the buzzer continually stay on, but it is not throwing any codes. The kit suggested I wire the pink/black wiring either into the fuse block or pink ignition wire, which I spliced into the ignition wire. I have several wiring diagrams from alldata(have that stuff at school to use), and I am pretty efficient in trouble shooting, but this one has kept me at bay for about a total of 4 hours. The starter will spin when jumpered. There was also a red wiring with a "O" ring attachment and I attached that to the starter on the battery side, cause that is for the computer to know when to kick on the fuel injectors right?
NOTE: The emmision stuff is not hooked up, but the harness says it is a stand alone harness. Also the front of the car is about 18" off the ground because I have it on jackstands.
Now should I wiring a push start button, or will the buzzer not shut off? Or does the buzzer shut off after it has started(it has been a while since I really drove a TPI car)? Or did i mess up somewhere and anyone have any ideas? And even though it has VATS, it should crank but not start right? Is there a level/mercury switch that prevents the car from starting at a high angle?
Any help is better than none at this point, its a beautiful car, and for the $800 I spent on the car and all it came with it was worth it, I just want to share the beauty with the rest of you third genners!
Just rewired a 91 Z28 305 TPI Map system. I bought the car with a painless wiring harness cause the original one(BTW the car started and drove, but would short out if a bump was hit) was shot, and with the kit came a VATS bypass module, which was also wired in. After all that I went to start the car and nothing, the fuel pump kicked on, pressurized, and shut off like it should, but when I went to the crank position, nothing, not even a click.
The purple wire to the "S" terminal on the starter has no shorts, replaced the fuse even though it wasn't blown, and still nothing. Now when the key is in the run position the SES light and the buzzer continually stay on, but it is not throwing any codes. The kit suggested I wire the pink/black wiring either into the fuse block or pink ignition wire, which I spliced into the ignition wire. I have several wiring diagrams from alldata(have that stuff at school to use), and I am pretty efficient in trouble shooting, but this one has kept me at bay for about a total of 4 hours. The starter will spin when jumpered. There was also a red wiring with a "O" ring attachment and I attached that to the starter on the battery side, cause that is for the computer to know when to kick on the fuel injectors right?NOTE: The emmision stuff is not hooked up, but the harness says it is a stand alone harness. Also the front of the car is about 18" off the ground because I have it on jackstands.
Now should I wiring a push start button, or will the buzzer not shut off? Or does the buzzer shut off after it has started(it has been a while since I really drove a TPI car)? Or did i mess up somewhere and anyone have any ideas? And even though it has VATS, it should crank but not start right? Is there a level/mercury switch that prevents the car from starting at a high angle?
Any help is better than none at this point, its a beautiful car, and for the $800 I spent on the car and all it came with it was worth it, I just want to share the beauty with the rest of you third genners!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
Car: Only a daily driver, but comin home
Engine: I have one that runs ;)
Transmission: Caged hamster that runs really fast
Axle/Gears: They are round, I know that much
OK, heres and update, got the car to start using the key, turns out the original VATS, since it was bypassed, was the ground for the starter enabler relay, so i grounded it out. Car started and i let it run for a few minutes, well about 3 minutes into it running it shut off(like around the time it may of gone into closed loop, i am not sure), but it started back up. HOWEVER, during the first start up the buzzer/SES light weren't sounding/lit, but afterwards they are on. Now i am unable to get codes out of the ALDL, when before i could, all it does is stay lit. Should i disconnect the battery and erase all the memory and try again? ALSO i removed the brake switch cause it broken when i lowered the steering column, could that send the ALDL a light, or could it also be that none of the emmissions stuff is hooked up? But the emmissions shouldn't matter because there are no wires going into the computer right? Just looking for some help, or I will troubleshoot the carp out of this and keep posting on it!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
Car: Only a daily driver, but comin home
Engine: I have one that runs ;)
Transmission: Caged hamster that runs really fast
Axle/Gears: They are round, I know that much
Another update, well i got the codes to show, it was just that i couldn't get a good enough connection to the terminals cause i bent one when i ran then previously. And the buzzer was a wiring mistake.
Now for the new problem, the code it is throwing is a 51, which is a PROM, MEM-Cal, or ECM error, BUT the car runs smoothly, no hesitation, or missing, or anything, so what does that mean? does the code just need to be cleared, cause i checked the chip and ecm connections, and they were all clean, except in the chip plug, there was something touching between the terminals which i cleared out. So what am i looking at here? Have to get a new chip? New ECM? or did it just trip a code and it needs to be cleared?
BTW to clear codes you need to unhook the ground cable for about 15 right?? its been so long since i had a tune port car
Now for the new problem, the code it is throwing is a 51, which is a PROM, MEM-Cal, or ECM error, BUT the car runs smoothly, no hesitation, or missing, or anything, so what does that mean? does the code just need to be cleared, cause i checked the chip and ecm connections, and they were all clean, except in the chip plug, there was something touching between the terminals which i cleared out. So what am i looking at here? Have to get a new chip? New ECM? or did it just trip a code and it needs to be cleared?
BTW to clear codes you need to unhook the ground cable for about 15 right?? its been so long since i had a tune port car
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