Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

I want cruise control!

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Old Jul 4, 2005 | 12:21 PM
  #1  
Rabbitt's Avatar
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
I want cruise control!

My Iroc originally came equipped with cruise control (as far as I know) But since its birth, the original motor has been junked and the computer has been taken out and tossed (neither by me).

But im tired of not having cruise! Can I make it work with my Holley 750 VS? What are all the parts needed and where are they located?

Thanx!
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Old Jul 4, 2005 | 02:02 PM
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Unless you can get the parts from a donor car, an aftermarket cruise control may be easiest. If you find a donor car and can get the servo, wiring, stalk switch, brake switch, and speedo input, go for it. It may be cheaper/easier to go aftermarket, but shopping around for both should reveal that.
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Old Jul 4, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
that sux, the only thing i can find is like $200.. oh well, it will be better than nothing
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Old Jul 4, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
well, i found two.. (summit)
- $89 but needs VSS.. that would require me to get a VSS for my 700r4, correct? And new gauges that use VSS, and a computer to go along with the VSS, right?
- $199 "Get cruise control for your vehicle.
These Rostra Global cruise controls kits are designed to work on engines that have a high-duration camshaft. They do not require vacuum to operate, making them great additions to street rods or musclecars. The kits include a fully programmable electronic cruise control module and detailed installation guides. The cruise controls feature set speed, tap up/tap down (1 mph per tap), coast/reduce speed, resume/accelerate, and controlled resume rate."

Would i be able to use the second one? or the first one?

EDIT:: Well, i can use the $89 one if i have enough vacuum.. but i plan on either building a more radical engine in the future or at least putting a more radical cam in my current motor, so then i would have to change my cruise control... hmm..

Last edited by Rabbitt; Jul 4, 2005 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Im curious to. My question is though woulfnt it need some sort of device to open up the carb to get enough air into it to keep it at speed?
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #6  
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
yah, they have a selenoid that hooks up to the throttle (basically) and keeps it open

I have decided on the $89 kit if my car has enough vacuum.. or if it will have a lot of vacuum when i put a more radical cam in... if it doesnt than i am going to have to get the $199 set.
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 10:11 PM
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From: South Carolina
Car: 91 GTA - 94 TPI Suburban
I assume the kit from Summit is Audiovox's Universal Cruise Control (Part no. AVX-CCS-100).

It comes with a pad type control switch that can be mounted somewhere on the dash. The unit I bought a few years ago came with a magnet kit that is needed if you do not have a VSS signal from the transmission. Summit's picture and description omits the magnet, so it may or may not still come with the magnet. However, Audiovox's website describes the kit which includes the universal pad type switch and a magnet kit. The magnet kit is part no. CCS-203 if you need to buy it separately. Check it out at Audiovox's website . They also sell a wide variety of factory style turn signal type switches if you want to have a stock look and convenience.

It is very easy to set-up. It works off vacuum, brake and tach signals. No speedometer cables like many factory systems. Depending on available vacuum, you may need to add a reservoir. One note, if you do get it and it will not hold at higher speeds, you will need to set the PPM (pulse per minute) from 2000 PPM to 4000 PPM. When using the included switch, it says to set it at 2000 PPM, but Audiovox told me that depending on the vehicle weight and horsepower, you may need to up to 4000 PPM, or even higher (5000 or 8000).

It works great on my car. You can see my setup here: www.edgesz28.com IMO - it will work fine on your car, engine and cam combination. Good luck installing your cruise control. Ed
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 12:27 AM
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
hmm.. well, i was thinking that i would either build a 406 or put new heads/cam/lifters (roller, prolly) on my current motor.. i was thinking about going with the Comp Cams XE268 or XE274 (all depends on what my engine guy says)..

XE268 - Duration at 50* - IN. 224/EX. 230...Lift - .477/.480

XE274 - Duration at 50* - IN. 230/EX. 236...Lift - .490/.490

or something like that.. i may have one custom ground, but i am looking to make some monster power sometime... lol

Do you think i would be able to have enough vacuum then? What is a vacuum resevior?

Last edited by Rabbitt; Jul 9, 2005 at 12:29 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 07:31 AM
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From: South Carolina
Car: 91 GTA - 94 TPI Suburban
My 383 is 9.8-1, has AFR 195 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM cam (Hyd. Roller #2201: 296/300 Adv. Dur.; 234/238 @ .050; .546”/.555” lift; 112 lsa), and Pro-Flo fuel injection.

I get about 9"-10" of vacuum in drive at about 900 RPM.

I think either cam in a 355 would still work. Definitely no problem in a 406. Plus, you can always install a vacuum canister. I have one for "just-in-case", but really think my brakes and cruise would be fine without it.

For $90, you will be pleased with the simplicity, yet great functionality of that system. Good luck, Ed
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 11:33 AM
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
sweet.. thanx a lot man.. now, where did you mount the coil at? i was thinking about mounting it on the torque arm (at the correct distance of course..)
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 03:54 PM
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From: South Carolina
Car: 91 GTA - 94 TPI Suburban
Sorry for the late reply.

Audiovox CSS-100









Please excuse the grease splatter (lol). Mounting the bracket is the most difficult part, for you have to remove the driveshaft and the seat(s) and carpet.

The magnet simply mounts to the driveshaft within 6" of the yoke. The kit comes with a wide variety of brackets and cable attachments, more then what is show in their picture.

Good luck, Ed.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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Rabbitt's Avatar
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
sweet, man thanx.. i'll be ordering that sometime in the near future, hopefully
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