Hey guys, I'm wondering if anyone here might be able to help me pinpoint my problem.

I just finished my v6-v8 swap and I'm trying to start the engine. The problem is the starter won't engage.

Everything in the Camaro is hooked up and redsled and I were trying to get it started last night. Starter won't seem to engage. All that happens when you turn the ignition switch is the BRAKE light coming on ( wth ) but no turning over. Double checked wiring going to the starter solenoid and it *seems* fine. I don't know if its hooked up right but could swear it is. There is a positive going to the battery going to the large nut on the solenoid. Then there is a smaller stud/nut setup to the left on the same solenoid, and it contains a red wire (fat) that goes to the harness as well

Now... in that same harness the fat red wire is coming from is what looks to be a ground. The ground is hooked up to the body. Originally, I'm stupid and had it on positive side of solenoid at first, the starter wouldnt go but at least there was lights and dash was working.

So when I took that and grounded it to the body, there is no lights in car or dash lights.

I'm totally stumped.

The Chiltons manual is absolute crap for finding out what wires go where.

Anyone have any suggestions as to why the car won't even turn over or why there are no lights in car now.

 

According to my GM service manual for the 1984 camaro, there should be a black cable running from the positive post on the battery to the large lug on the starter solenoid. There should also be two red wires (fusible links) connected to a single large terminal lug connected to the same post as the large battery cable. There should also be a purple wire with a small terminal lug connected to a small post on the starter solenoid that is marked "S". This wire goes to the Park/Neutral safety switch if an AUTOMATIC or the Clutch Start Switch if a MANUAL transmission. The starter is grounded to the engine chassis by contact and has no other grounding wires or straps. The purple wire completes the circuit from the ignition switch to the starter.

 

You sir, have helped me greatly. This car was originally a T5 and now its a TH350, but I still have the clutch pedal in the car. Now... I had it hooked like that service manual says and depressed the clutch and got no start. Or is there something that needs to be rigged since the new trans is in?

Thats kinda where I'm stuck.

Appreciate the help so far

 

If your car is now an automatic, the purple wire will go to pin "E" of the Park/Neutral switch and the yellow wire that was on the other pin of the clutch start switch will go to pin "F" of the P/N switch. Also if you have electronic fuel injection now, there is a second purple wire branching off to go to the 3 AMP crank fuse. Yes the Park/Neutral switch will need to be properly rigged on the shifter assembly once you have it wired correctly.

 

Sorry but my chiltons is nothing but baloney, I don't know where the Park/Neutral switch is on this vehicle. Would it be the shifter setup for the trans?

ok disregard that top statement.

Now my question is, getting that purple wire from the inside of the engine bay to the inside of the car. How is that possible? Just trace it back to the column and tug it out of the harness ? Sorry if that sounds stupid.

 

Also, is it at all possible to bypass this park/neutral switch. I'm the only one to be driving my car and I can definitely trust myself to start the car in park. I see no need for it.

 

All you need to do is to take the yellow & purple wire from the clutch start switch and run it under the center console to the Park/Neutral switch on the shifter assembly. There is no extra wires to run through the firewall from the engine bay.

 

Sorry, I am so dumb sometimes

I see now.

But about bypassing it, do I just tie the 2 wire ends together and complete the circuit like so?

 

Yep!!!!!!! or just take and splice them together.

 

Funny you replied when you did, yahoo just popped up an email and said it was from thirdgen, cuz...

I just got back, located wires. 2 Thick wires, the yellow and purple. I cut off the connector and proceeded to splice the wires.

Hook starter back up correctly, I have lights and dash working again.

I go to start it.

Yep, you guessed it. Starter won't engage! No turning over at all.

When this motor was pulled, the starter worked flawlessly. I know because I drove the '79 camaro around before we tore into it.

I'm at a total loss for ideas. I'm to the point of rewiring the whole car but I don't know how well I'd do with that.

Is there something that I could be missing? I'll recap.

Small red wire to small post of solenoid. Positive from battery to large solenoid post. Fusible link setup to large solenoid post. Thick yellow wire and purple wire spliced together, from clutch pedal assembly.

A friend of mine is telling me over AIM that when he was over, the small red wire going to the small post never had power. We used the light bulb tester for power and other wires were getting power, but not that one.

What exactly does the red wire go to? What could this possibly sound like being?

 

It sounds like someone has done a splice job there somewhere because that should be a purple wire going to that small post on the starter solenoid, not a red one. Have you checked all the grounds on the back of the cylinder heads? Have also checked both those fusible links and the battery for a full charge on it. If the battery has 9 volts or less the starter will not engage. Also check the crank fuse that I mentioned previously, it is a 3 AMP fuse on the fuse block.

 

Ok. Out of all the things you mentioned, one caught my eye. The battery thing. I know the battery hung around onthe ground for a while (not my fault) and I know that drains it. Is it possible ot have all electricity going through the car (enough to power lights and such) and then not engage starter?

 

I have a carbed application, so I don't know if the 3 amp crank fuse applies to me. All the loose grounds are connected (but I connected them to the intake and 1 to the carb... will that matter?)

As for the red/purple wire, I don't understand whats up with that.

Now, back to the battery thing. I remember before pulling the v6 out, I had a REAL hard time getting the starter to engage. At one point, I was stuck in downtown lincoln at the university for 30 minutes. I'd put in key, try to start, and starter didnt engage. After 30 minutes of sitting down and various tries, I FINALLY got it to start. I remember dismissing it as a bad starter, but maybe it had to do with the wiring or the battery?

Would something like that sound like maybe a bad ignition switch? Or a really bad battery?

EDIT: Also would like to mention that we had the v6 starter handy and ghetto rigged it outside of the car and got it to engage. So the bad starter theory was dispelled, and thats what led to me thinking something involved with the wiring itself or the battery.

 

Okay, back to the fusible links that were mentioned earlier. Of those two links, one goes to the light switch while the second one goes to the ignition switch. Sound like a light bulb being turned on here?

 

Ahahaha I see I see.

Sorry, I don't have a real manual for my car. I see now, how important one could be lol. Next time I get the money, I'll shoot for a Helms service manual.

As for checking the fusible links, what exactly is there to check? I see the 2 fusible links, but I haven't fiddled with them. Do they unplug or open up or something? And replace the ignition one if necessary.

I really do appreciate the help you are giving me. You're fighting quite the battle because of my ignorance heh

 

To test the fusible links for servicability, simply pull on each one gently. If it stretches, then it is bad. Also check the connections at the starter for corrosion and clean as required. BTW, I love battles either uphill or downhill. And now it is off to sleepy time as I have the early shift today. If you want a Helms manual, just keep checking e-bay. That is where I got most of mine.