I relocated my batt and when the car started I had horrible voltage. Heres how its hooked up:

1/0 GND from batt to frame
4 ga. GND strap from frame to motor
1/0 PWR from batt to switch,
1/0 from switch to distro block in bay
4 ga. from distro to starter
Alt. Charging Lead from Alt to kill switch

I'm getting a very low amount of voltage drop from the batt to the distro block and from the battery to the alt.

Could the Alt charging lead going through the Kill switch then to the battery be the cause of my bad voltage???

 

BTW...I have the Summit disconnect switch. Rated at 20 continous Amps if that matters.

part number SUM-G1432

 

I'd get a multiple-accessory positive terminal and put the switch and alternator on different spots on it.

 

Could you explain a little more?

Are you referring to a new kill switch with an seperate alternator kill or can I modily what I have now?

Do you think this is the cause?

 

No, not a different kill switch. Multiple output terminal You run one in from the alternator, one out to the starter, and then if you have accessories such as a stereo amp, etc.
Depending on how far back toward the alternator you put the switch, you may need this, or need to replace the alternator to battery wire, since the kill switch should be between the battery and the starter, ESPECIALLY since the switch is rated for only 20 amps, 125 amps surge, and your alternator is prolly around 100+...at least, that's what the .pdf instructions on Summit say.

So, at first glance, yeah, it may be the problem. How much of a voltage drop is it?

 

the voltage drop is maybe .3 volts.

I have a distro block in the engine bay that the main power feed from the battery comes in and that supplys power to my starter, MSD box, and electric fan...but, hooking up the alt charging lead to that will contine to supply power to the ECM which won't kill the car immediatly. The alt can supply enough power itself to keep everything running.

The way my car is wired is this...the alt charging lead goes from the alt post to a fusable link where the ecm connector (and power) is supplied then normally directly to the battery on stock cars. So I had to run that directly to the kill switch so when its flipped the ECM's power is cu as well.

BTW...something like a distro block doesn't mean the alt and starter (or whatever you put on it) are on different circuits or anything like that. Its just like hooking the wires up together since the Multiple-accessory positive terminal acts as nothing but an extra spot to hook pwr wires into.

 

TTT

 

No one?

 

I've got the wiring diagram here, and pretty much, you'll either have to rig it up between the starter and starting/charging system circuit, or do it right and get a Painless Charging System Shutdown kit. You could then move the kill switch between the battery and starter, for extra security if you leave it sitting unattended. Or another option would be to PM Trickster and see if a .3v drop is anything to worry about. But like I said, the switch is only rated for 20amps, and the alternator is much higher than that.