Car won't start
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 57
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car won't start
So here's the deal:
Back in January (yes - winter - I know I shouldn't be driving it but I had to) my car didn't want to start one morning - so I boosted it and it was fine - it started all day long. The next morning - same thing.. it doesn't start but this time, for three days and then, it works fine for 6 months.
I replaced my starter not long ago because it wasn't spinning so that seemed okay. I cleaned the wires (they were prrrty corroded). So a few weeks ago, my car doesn't start for the first few tries (but it clicks at the starter). NOW, I don't even get a click. I have a jimmy-rigged alarm (bought it like this) and I feel the Relay click but I don't hear anything clicking at the starter.
At first, it did this for a day and the next day, it started fine like 5 times but now, it's back to not starting and no click at the starter.
I've tried boosting, turning off the alarm (switch + fuse) but still no go. Usually when I wait a few days and wait till its cooler - it'll start. I've tried jumping it directly to the starter but it wouldn't go.
So would it be a relay? the alarm? the starter? what do you guys think??
Back in January (yes - winter - I know I shouldn't be driving it but I had to) my car didn't want to start one morning - so I boosted it and it was fine - it started all day long. The next morning - same thing.. it doesn't start but this time, for three days and then, it works fine for 6 months.
I replaced my starter not long ago because it wasn't spinning so that seemed okay. I cleaned the wires (they were prrrty corroded). So a few weeks ago, my car doesn't start for the first few tries (but it clicks at the starter). NOW, I don't even get a click. I have a jimmy-rigged alarm (bought it like this) and I feel the Relay click but I don't hear anything clicking at the starter.
At first, it did this for a day and the next day, it started fine like 5 times but now, it's back to not starting and no click at the starter.
I've tried boosting, turning off the alarm (switch + fuse) but still no go. Usually when I wait a few days and wait till its cooler - it'll start. I've tried jumping it directly to the starter but it wouldn't go.
So would it be a relay? the alarm? the starter? what do you guys think??
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Car: Only a daily driver, but comin home
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Transmission: Caged hamster that runs really fast
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pull the relay and check for corrosion.
with you jumping it at the starter and no having it not start sounds more like the positive battery cable that runs to the B+ terminal on the starter is corroded in the wire. even tho you cleaned the terminals, the cables themselves can build corrosion up under the insulation where you can't see it. this corrosion will stop electrical flow to the starter, and when you were using a booster pack, it probably wasn't nessecary but the extra power of the pack and battery together pushed enough power thru the cable and to the battery.
if you have a ohm meter, or DVOM (digital volt ohm meter, or multimeter) check for resistance, ohms (funny upside down "U" shape) in the cable. this is very simple to do and requires you only to unbolt 2 things
1. Jack the front, or just passenger side of the car high enough for you to get under comfortably, AND USE JACK STANDS (I should know)
2. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery
3. Disconnect the "B" terminal on the starter, where the cable and other wires come into
4. Connect one end of the meter you have to the battery side and one end to the starter side, set the meter to Ohms.
5. check the reading, you should have NO resistance in the cable (.2 or less with a good meter)
while under the car check the wire fibers under the insulation themselves, and also check the connection on the purple, "S" terminal wire. if you did get resistance the cable will need to be replaced. if you didnt get resistance, then you will need to check the purple wire, start by tracking it back to the bulkhead connector under the brake booster on the drivers side and gently cut some insulation back on the wire to expose the fibers and test the Ohms there. keep going back until you reach the ignition switch, but you probably wont find any problems inside the car.
Hope some of this helped and isnt to hard to read, and ask anymore questions and I am sure there are many else on here to help!!
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If you can, however, trace the corrosion up into the cable and are feeling up to it, remove the cable and use a mixture of bakingsoda and hot/warm water, mix into a paster and scrub the corrosion with an old tooth brush, then rinse on warm/hot water and repeat until it is all gone.
BE SURE TO RECOVER THE CABLE!!!! Best is to use some electical tape and recover the cable, and then spray the terminals with batter terminal protectant (comes in a spray can and sprays purple-ish)
Good Luck!!!
with you jumping it at the starter and no having it not start sounds more like the positive battery cable that runs to the B+ terminal on the starter is corroded in the wire. even tho you cleaned the terminals, the cables themselves can build corrosion up under the insulation where you can't see it. this corrosion will stop electrical flow to the starter, and when you were using a booster pack, it probably wasn't nessecary but the extra power of the pack and battery together pushed enough power thru the cable and to the battery.
if you have a ohm meter, or DVOM (digital volt ohm meter, or multimeter) check for resistance, ohms (funny upside down "U" shape) in the cable. this is very simple to do and requires you only to unbolt 2 things
1. Jack the front, or just passenger side of the car high enough for you to get under comfortably, AND USE JACK STANDS (I should know)
2. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery
3. Disconnect the "B" terminal on the starter, where the cable and other wires come into
4. Connect one end of the meter you have to the battery side and one end to the starter side, set the meter to Ohms.
5. check the reading, you should have NO resistance in the cable (.2 or less with a good meter)
while under the car check the wire fibers under the insulation themselves, and also check the connection on the purple, "S" terminal wire. if you did get resistance the cable will need to be replaced. if you didnt get resistance, then you will need to check the purple wire, start by tracking it back to the bulkhead connector under the brake booster on the drivers side and gently cut some insulation back on the wire to expose the fibers and test the Ohms there. keep going back until you reach the ignition switch, but you probably wont find any problems inside the car.
Hope some of this helped and isnt to hard to read, and ask anymore questions and I am sure there are many else on here to help!!
----------
If you can, however, trace the corrosion up into the cable and are feeling up to it, remove the cable and use a mixture of bakingsoda and hot/warm water, mix into a paster and scrub the corrosion with an old tooth brush, then rinse on warm/hot water and repeat until it is all gone.
BE SURE TO RECOVER THE CABLE!!!! Best is to use some electical tape and recover the cable, and then spray the terminals with batter terminal protectant (comes in a spray can and sprays purple-ish)
Good Luck!!!
Last edited by 91CamaroRS305; Jun 13, 2006 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 57
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From: Ontario, Canada
**UPDATE**
I was tinkering around when pin 86 (on the ignition kill relay) came lose under the car and I couldn't locate where it came from. So finally I came accross a yellow wire (not the main ignition one - but a smaller yellow cable). Anyways, I was able to get my 12V from there but it still would not start.
I changed my relay, hooked it up to that and another car and VROOM! she started right up on the first try!! BUT I tried it again after driving around for a bit, tryin to build the battery back up and it didn't work. NOW, instead of the relay clicking only when I turn the key, it clicks right away when put it to the 12V power supply (well I assume its 12V).
As a side note, I found where the pin 86 was going - to the "Crank for ECM" fuse - it was stuck in there. But like I said - now, when I connect the wires to the power, it clicks right away and I get no start - so is something always running? Why would the relay click right away instead of when I turn the key? Did I blow a brand new relay with ONE click?? what's goin on?!??
I was tinkering around when pin 86 (on the ignition kill relay) came lose under the car and I couldn't locate where it came from. So finally I came accross a yellow wire (not the main ignition one - but a smaller yellow cable). Anyways, I was able to get my 12V from there but it still would not start.
I changed my relay, hooked it up to that and another car and VROOM! she started right up on the first try!! BUT I tried it again after driving around for a bit, tryin to build the battery back up and it didn't work. NOW, instead of the relay clicking only when I turn the key, it clicks right away when put it to the 12V power supply (well I assume its 12V).
As a side note, I found where the pin 86 was going - to the "Crank for ECM" fuse - it was stuck in there. But like I said - now, when I connect the wires to the power, it clicks right away and I get no start - so is something always running? Why would the relay click right away instead of when I turn the key? Did I blow a brand new relay with ONE click?? what's goin on?!??
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