I removed my aerowing yesterday to sand it down and repaint it and when I set the hatch down to lift the spoiler off the hatch pulldown engaged and it kept pulling without the hatch latched and wouldnt stop I quickly hit the rear hatch release button which made it stop trying to pull down but now the hatch pulldown will not come back up so the hatch will latch is there anyway to fix this or is the unit shot? Did removing the third brake light somehow affect the hatch pulldown, it looked like a couple wires ran from the switch thing on the hatch itself to the third brake light..... If it is shot is there a way I can adjust it just so I can get the hatch to latch again?!! Thanks!

 

You may have blown the fuse. Check that 1st. Then if that is good, Look below the shaft that the pull down rides on. There is a small trigger switch that tells the hatch motor that it has reatched it's limit in that direction and shuts it off so the next time it is engaged it will go in the opposite direction. Flip it in the opposite direction that it faces then press the hatch release button. Also, try removing the connector for the unit and plugging it back in. There is another tiny switch on top of the latch itself that detects if the trunk is closed or not. Try cheating it shut then push the hatch release button. Finally, make sure the plastic assembly that holds the pull-down motor gears is not broken and the tracks are greased well. Eventually one of these tricks will put the motor in the upmost position. Hope this helps.

 

I will try that, I also saw what looked like a relay right by the unit or was that a fuse?

 

It's a relay, the fuse is in the fuse panel beneath the driver's side dash

 

Are the hatch pulldown motor and the hatch release on the same fuse? If so I know the hatch release is still working cause it still clicks when I hit the button

 

I looked all over and I couldnt find anything that looked like it might be a directional switch.....Can anyone help me on this?

 

It is not a fuse problem. Here's what happened, as you described the striker-sensing switch was pressed which starts the pull-down motor, yet the hatch loop wasn't latched to the pull-down unit. The motor ONLY goes down while the striker-sensing switch is pressed. Release that switch mid-cycle and the motr will shut off. It will not start again until the switch is pressed again. All you have to do is re-set the pull-down motor by pressing on that striker-sensing switch. It ia a small black switch just in front of the latch as you are looking at the pull-down unit from the rear of hte car. There is a black spring-loaded nylon piece just to the right of it. That is not the switch. The switch has a small black lever that you'll need to press and hold down with your finger. Once it has powered all the way down you'll hear a CLICK. That is the reversing switch being tripped ending the down cycle. Release the switch and the unit will power back up until it again trips the reversing switch and shuts off the motor. It is now re-set.

Lon

 

Thanks for your help I will try that

 

Good wording on that. I couldn't seem to get across what I was trying to say. I think I caused more confusion than help.

 

Thanks for the information lon, However I now have new problem.... I did as you said and held down the switch which then made the motor pull down some and click as you said, However now the motor will not disengage, it is at the very bottom and the motor just keeps working and it doesnt go anywhere,the only way i was able to make it stop was to unplug it. Does this mean the unit is shot? I dont know if it affects it any but as I was taking the plastic trim off back there the wire that goes to the switch to turn the hatch light on and off broke and I havent found where it conneced to yet, would that have anything to do with it? Also the spoiler is off and the 3rd brake light is off too I dont know if that would affect it or not. I can see the motor spinning so I think the motor is still good. could of something come loose not allowing it to move up and down the tracks? Thanks for your help.

 

You said it went CLICK when reached bottom. It will remain off only until the switch you were pressing on is released (as if the hatch was released). Now it should power up, which it sounds as if it's trying to do. However the fact that the motor is just spiinning withoug raising the lift rod and latch assembly means your plastic gear nut is stripped. I sell it as 109111 for $7.

None of the other items mentioned effect this. The third brake light (aka HMSL, High Mount Stop Light) will ONLY work when the hatch is latched. Your's isn't. There is a spring-loaded pin assembly on the hatch that is suposed to make contact with the outer two pads of the contact pad below it. As mentioned aleredy the hatch needs to be latched for it to make contact. There are two spring loaded pins on the upper piece. Make sure they are present. Sometimes one or both will break off.

Lon

 

is it working properly subliminal?

mine had to be reset the other day also, popped the hatch for a minute and when i went to close it, it acted as if the battery wasn't connected. played with the fuses and the trigger and whatnot, and when i came out to my car a few minutes later, it was good to go.

...however, my hatch has to be guided, aka slowly pressed down when i want to shut mine. it has power and it works properly as long as you help it. when it gets to the bottom a nice, firm push clicks off the motor and everything is good...

...lonsal, would u know what piece(s) i should troubleshoot first? i've had the hatch motor contraption apart 4 or 5 times, so i have the nomenclature down, haha.

sorry to hijack,
brandon

 

I will order that part from you as soon as I can, In the mean time is there anyway I can just make it latch? Also once I have that part how do I go about replacing it? Once again thanks alot.

 

Subliminal: You'll have to disassemble it and screw out the gear nut on the lift-rod by hand, then re-assemble. Read the Tech Article I wrote on this site for details on how to properly disassy.

Tobias05: You shouldn't have to guide it down. It sounds as if your motor is weak or the gear nut and tracks need to be re-lubed. Clean it with WD40, then re-lube with white lithium grease. Have you tried replacing it with one from anoher pull-down? What shape are the guides in? If they are bad it could be causing extra drag too. Also bad guides can cause the alignment to be bad and it will jamb. If that happens say goodbye to the gear nut. New motors with integral motor are available all over eBay. I sell them too, but I reinforce them with aluminum and epoxy.

Lon

 

Good to go Lon, IIRC the guides have seen better days, and the gear nut is probably on its way out too. 3rd gear nut lol....

I shall take a look at it this weekend, afte I stab my quick ratio gearbox.

Thanks Lon.