Radiator fan fusible link E
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From: Oregon
Car: '92 Camaro RS
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Radiator fan fusible link E
My coolant fan motor overloaded and burned up the wire connected to fusible link E. After replacing the fan I tracked down the burned wire (it had burned in half) and when I contacted the two ends together the fan spun normally. I was very surprised to see the wire had burned while the fusible link remained undamaged. My understanding of a fusible link is it is simply a smaller gauge wire than the wire it connects to (presumably to destroy the link before the primary wire is damaged). Is this not how a fusible link is supposed to function?
Not trusting the fusible link any more (the wire burned within 1 inch of it) I replaced the link with a 20 amp fuse. Now the fan runs fine in the key on position, but instantly blows the fuse with the engine running. I just finished replacing the 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse which will hopefully solve the problem. I guess my real question is what size fuse is comparable to a fusible link E? I don't want to defeat the purpose of a fuse by using one that's rated too high.
Thanks!
Not trusting the fusible link any more (the wire burned within 1 inch of it) I replaced the link with a 20 amp fuse. Now the fan runs fine in the key on position, but instantly blows the fuse with the engine running. I just finished replacing the 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse which will hopefully solve the problem. I guess my real question is what size fuse is comparable to a fusible link E? I don't want to defeat the purpose of a fuse by using one that's rated too high.
Thanks!
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Abilene, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
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Re: Radiator fan fusible link E
My coolant fan motor overloaded and burned up the wire connected to fusible link E. After replacing the fan I tracked down the burned wire (it had burned in half) and when I contacted the two ends together the fan spun normally. I was very surprised to see the wire had burned while the fusible link remained undamaged. My understanding of a fusible link is it is simply a smaller gauge wire than the wire it connects to (presumably to destroy the link before the primary wire is damaged). Is this not how a fusible link is supposed to function?
Not trusting the fusible link any more (the wire burned within 1 inch of it) I replaced the link with a 20 amp fuse. Now the fan runs fine in the key on position, but instantly blows the fuse with the engine running. I just finished replacing the 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse which will hopefully solve the problem. I guess my real question is what size fuse is comparable to a fusible link E? I don't want to defeat the purpose of a fuse by using one that's rated too high.
Thanks!
Not trusting the fusible link any more (the wire burned within 1 inch of it) I replaced the link with a 20 amp fuse. Now the fan runs fine in the key on position, but instantly blows the fuse with the engine running. I just finished replacing the 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse which will hopefully solve the problem. I guess my real question is what size fuse is comparable to a fusible link E? I don't want to defeat the purpose of a fuse by using one that's rated too high.
Thanks!
The fuse rating is calculated based on max operating amperage plus (I imagine) about 10%. They are there to protect your relays, motors and wiring. Simply put- stick to the factory recommended fuses/links unless you are planning to modify the circuit (adding additional resistance.) If you continue to blow fuses you could have defective relays, defective fan motors or a short in the wiring.
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