Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

OK, I started a recent thread regarding that "THING" on the battery cable. Turns out it's a fusible link. Guess my question shoulda been how to replace it while upgrading my wiring.

Here's what I wanna do. I'm gonna use a fancy car audio battery terminal and run nice new, heavier gauge wire where appropriate as part of my "BIG 3" upgrade. However, running a new wire to the alternator won't include that fusible link.

...because I'm a graphic artist, not an electrician, I made YOU a diagram, so hopefully you can tell ME what to do.

Deal?

So whaddoo I do???

pmpn

This is prolly ignorant but I have a 0 gage cable to my 140A alternator without a fusible link. I'm taking a risk that my alterator or cable won't short to ground- very unlikely IMHO but yeah it'd start a pretty nice fire. IF you can find a serviceable fusible link to use I would recommend using it. Don't quote me on this but I believe most common vehicles do not have this fusible link. For what it's worth, our starter cable doesn't have a fusible link either.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

I guess I'm just totally "electronics" ignorant. I have no concept of how what you described would start a fire! ....so for the moment, let's pretend that the diagram I drew is what I have. 1 cable going to the alternator, one to the starter, and one to the amplifier distribution block.

.....I also now have a black and orange wire floating in space.

What do I do? Do they need power? See, I'm totally ignorant. A fusible link is like a fuse right, so my guess is each of those two wires need a fuse, and they need some connection to power, right?

Like this?

pmpn

A fusible link is nothing more than an in-line fuse. Too much current goes through it and it melts thus opening the circuit. Without it that circuit is unprotected from a short to ground or too much resistance (Very high current being drawn.) If that cable/motor/whatever contacts ground it will pull infinite current (in theory- defined by the source.) This will cause wires to melt/ insulation to catch fire/ arc explosions and there will be nothing to stop the current supply (until the battery or alternator is exhausted.)

Fusible links are rated lower than the wire which actually carries the current. The larger gage wire/cable you use the less likely any of this will happen. I believe ALL speaker shops use actual fuses for amps/subs- not fusible links. Your drawing should work, whatever components you run power to must be grounded.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

OK, in my drawing in my last post, those two wires (orange and black) have fuses (those black boxes ) - but the alternator wire itself does NOT. Good idea to have a fuse on THAT wire too, eh?

....the only thing I'm actually adding is NEW wiring. Maybe an additional amp later, but I don't need two just yet. All the reading on the upgraded wiring suggest adding ADDITIONAL, not NEW wiring. I'm doing this for appearance just as much as performance so I don't want EXTRA wires if possible. Everything has been straight forward until I can upon that fusible link.

pmpn

Those orange and black wires should have their own fusible links. The orange goes to your fans and "I believe" the black goes to your ignition switch. That black cylinder is a just a junction block- a three way splice. A fusible link is nothing more than a smaller gage wire that is intended to melt from over current. When I redid my alternator cable I just had those wires run straight off the positive terminal.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Wait, -OK, I thought THAT WAS the fusible link!!!

....so what you're saying is that cylinder is nothing more than a fancy splice? Well, damn, THAT is easy enough to replace!

....so uh, you [I]sure[I] that's just a three way splice?

BTW, I REALLY appreciate your time

pmpn

I looked again at the Haynes WD, the only Fbody's 1985 thru 1989 that had a fusible link between the battery and alternator were engine vin E- I believe that rules out TPIs and your IROC. You should be in the clear, just run those two wires to the positive terminal with the cable. You should only have one junction on that cable, correct? With the black and orange wires running to it? Very happy to help, if ya lived near Abilene, TX I'd help ya put it together

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

SWEET!!!!!

Thanks for the help.

.....You could move to NC, and I'd letcha help all ya want!



Thanks again.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

Abubaca, i just answered your other post, & then saw this one. what can i say, i start from the bottom.
i believe the Haynes is going to be wrong about what cars had fuse links for the alternator.
the some of the books for my 83 monte carlo doesn't show a fuse link between the battery & alt, but there was one on the car from the factory.
i highly recommend you use a fuse link, alternators can short out internally & with out a fuse link can cause a lot of damage.
i was lazy when i wired up my cooling fans & didn't put a fuse link in for them. they worked fine until one of the fan motors locked up & smoked part of my harness. i 'll tell you, when i saw smoke coming from under the hood, it scared the He!! out of me.
you can find new ready made fuse links at most any parts house, or you can buy a roll of fuse link & make up your own.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

OK, Alternator to Battery. I have every intention of adding fuse.

.....MY concern, from the get-go (although I admit my presentation is a little scatterbrained) is the two leads (orange and black) coming off the factory alternator wire. Do THOSE two leads need a fuse, or can I go straight to the battery??? ....because if I add a new alternator wire, obviously it'll just go from the alternator to the fuse, to the battery, and there wont be a connector for those two wires. (orange and black).

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Sorry 'bout all this. I think I got everyone thinking the wrong thing from the get go.

This actually has nothing to do at all with the alternator. Let's pretend I have a wire from the alternator, into a fuse box, and then to the battery. No problems. All is well.

....I now have an orange wire and a black wire, which I think go from the fan relay and the ECM. Do THOSE wires get wired directly to the battery, or do I need to fuse those too?

Check out the diagram I drew in the first post. On the left is factory, on the right is what I plan to do (minus the fuse on the alt. wire). What do I do with the orange and black wire?

pmpn

Those two wires should already have their own fusible links downstream- I know for a fact the orange one does. It comes off that splice to a single pin weatherpak connector then through a red fusible link and on to your fan relays. I've never messed with the black but I would imagine it would be the same.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

....I'm gonna have a chance to actually get my hands on the car a little this weekend so I'll double check too and report back.

....I've learned SO MUCH about cars over the years, but not much about the electrical side. When I DO mess with it, it's either going step by step with the help of some instructions or simply replacing and rerouting wiring. As simple as "THIS" rewiring is, to me it's still all greek!!!!

Thanks for the patience!

bgrover9121

I realize this thread is years old, but I'm hoping someone will reply. I too have went to replace my battery cables and am slightly confused. (I own a 1985 Camaro Z28) I understand that the positive cable (4 gauge in my case) goes from the battery to the starter solenoid, but there was a fusible link on my cable with two wires. One black wire connected into the back of my alternator and the other tan wire had a connector that connected the opposite tan wire. My questions:
Where can I find a positive cable with the same fusible link or how can I splice my own?
What is the purpose of the two smaller wires (black and tan) coming from the fusible link?
And is the negative cable that connects to the alternator bracket just a ground wire?

I'd appreciate the help thanks