I am about to get the car saftied and i need these things fixed before i can bring it in.

1) Reverse Lights - my car used to be a 5 speed and was changed to a 700r4, where do the wires leads coming from the reverse lights? do they go into the dash? i have a b&m hammer shifter as well.

2) Horn - there are 2 horns on the driver side fender, one wire going to the other, then another wire going into a harness in the front of the engine bay. but they horn doesnt work i was told something about a convenience center under the dash, can someone help me out?

3) Speedometer - it works i think, well it moves, and the odometer works. i put the pigtail in the transmission and the yellow wire to the VSS on the gauge cluster, and i grounded the purple wire. the speedometer seems to bounce around and doesnt rad accurately at all not that it should since i have 410 gears. but it just bounces and im doing around 100 it says 40-50 bouncing around.

if you could help me out here that would be great.

 

Manual Transmissions have a back up switch that plugs into the transmission. The wires are routed through the C100 bulkhead connector to Connector C200 and then through the car to the lights. Automatic Transmission have a Gear Selector Switch mounted on the transmission shifter in the center console. There is a connector that plugs into the Gear Selector Switch, two of which are for the backup lights. So it appears that you may have to do a little wiring to get the backup lights to work correctly.

You might want to read through the thread at this link. You will find pictures of the connector for the Auto Tranny Gear Selector switch (maybe you have one hiding in your center console) and the convinence center, with the horn relay pointed out.........

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...highlight=horn

The horn switch is located in the steering wheel. This powers the HORN Relay, located in the convinence center which powers the horns. The convinence center is located under the dash, just above your right knee when you are driving. Try using for "Horn" or "Horn+Relay" in this board. You shoud be able to find some trouble shooting info.

Or look here....
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...highlight=horn

Not sure here, but I suspect you have a bad drive gear in the transmission pick up and that is why the speedo is bouncing. Perhaps someone with a little more knowledge than me can enlighten you about this.

I would also suggest that you visit the first sticky on top and follow the link to get the wiring diagrams for your car. With them you should be able to trace the wiring for both the back up lights and the horn circuit.

Good Luck

Dave

 

my car was originally a 5 speed, but i have this connector that the guy is talking about with his auto. i lifted up my carpet after i removed the center console and its laying by the shifter.

Gear Selector Switch, which means you have an auto transmission.
The large yellow and purple wires let you start the car only if it is in park or neutral. The orange/black and black/white
wires are an input to the ECM for gear position. The blue and light green wires are for the back up lights. The connector
should plug directly into the switch, whcih should be mounted on the left (driver's) side of the auto shift lever.


as for the horn, i found a diagram, and i think i will replace the Horn relay if its cheap and go from there. if that doesnt work follow the wiring. the CTSY fuse is not blown.


just need a little help with the speedometer now.

 

ttt

 

ok did some work today lets start with the horn.

i applied 12v from the battery directly to the horn and it went off. i replaced the horn relay, and replaced the ctsy fuse. still no go from the steering wheel, retraced all wiring from firewall and leads right to the horn relay, and from there to the fuse box. what else could it be, i hear people say the horn button but how do i get that off?

now the reverse lights, at least i know they work, the green and blue wires i tied together it made the reverse lights stay on at all times. i took aapart my hammer shifter and its not like mega shifters where there are 2 black boxes for safety switch and reverse lights. i only have 1 black box not 2 with 2 prongs not 4. i included a picture below and this is all i got. the neutral safety switch purple and yellow wires were hooked up to this i unplugged them and the car wont start, but will start in every gear when plugged in. i hooked the reverse light wires up to it and they come on as soon as i turn the key ahead and stay on in every gear. can someone help, i got my car all apart here. lol.

 

Next you need to find connector C200 near the bottom of the steering column. Pull it apart. It should have a white top piece with wires going up the steering column and a black bottom piece with wires going into a large wirng harness. On the bottom part, find the black wire and insert a jumper into this position. Ground the other end of the jumper (to left side of steering column you should see a ground point there, just under the dash. Did the horn sound when you grounded the wire? If the horn sounded, then the problem is with the wiring in the steering column or the horn switch itself. If the horn did not sound the the problem most likley is the wiring between the bottom portion of the connector and the horn relay in the convinence center. Pull the CTSY FUSE and use an ohmmeter to check the wire continunity between the bottom portion of the connector and the horn realy coil. See the diagram in your post above. Should be treminal B.

If you get an open circuit on this test, the wire between the connector and the relay is bad. If will need to be replaced or repaired, if you can find where it is borken or open. If you get zero ohms, then the wire is good and you will need to check the horn switch and wiring in the steering wheel.

To revmove the steering wheel cover ( only if you have a 1989 or earlier car....1990 and later you have to mess with the air bag) push down from the top and pull off. Remove the two screws ( on the underside of the steering column) holding the shroud cover in place and you will get access to the horn contact lead assembly. Check the continuity form here to the top portion of the C200 connector, black lead. If open circuit, wire is likley bad, if short circuit ( 0 ohms ) wiring should be good.

See the attached photo for a look at the C200 connector pulled apart. The top portion is the white section on the left and the bottom section is the black piece on the right ( which may not show up very well in this view ).

I took a look at the B&M Hammer instructions I found on the Summit site, and I think you should have two of the switches, not one. You need one as the neutral switch, so the car will only start in neutral or park. The second one is for the backup lights, and if you have a power rear hatch, it also is supposted to be interlocked with the shifter so you can only open the hatch in park or neutral.

Your description indicates that the switch is bad, with the internal contact closed in all positions. You can test it with an ohmmeter. With the top lever arm in the up position, hook the ohmmeter to the left and and bottom terminals. You will either get an open or short circuit. Now press the lever down. Did the ohmmeter reading reverse? (if you had an open circuit to start with you should get a short or vis versa) If the ohmmeter did not change reading when you pressed the lever down, the switch is bad and will need to be replaced.

You can get a replacment here, and the second swich to use for your back up lights here.....

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...192+4294904018

Let us know how this is working out for you. By the way, is your speedometer mechanical or electric?


Dave

 

thanks, ill check the wiring from the steering column to the convenience center.

as for the reverse light switch i looked on the side of the shifter and doesnt even look like a switch will go under or above it? like i said the 2 purple/yellow wires for neutral safety were plugged in, and when i unplugged them and turned the key i got nothing i had to plug them back in to turn the car over but does it in every gear.
as for the reverse lights they work cuz i touched the blue and green together and the lights stayed on. i plugged them into that one switch and stay on when i turn the key ahead. you sure this mean the switch is bad??

and i have an electrical speedometer.

 

ok so i found the connector your talking about, white on top, black on bottom. but there are no black wires on EITHER connector, i included a picture.

on the white connector its pink, purple, dark green, grey, and white.
on the black connector its white, grey, dark green, purple, and pink.

 

when you said used a jumper, could u just use a piece of wire stick it in the slot so its touching metal, then ground it to something metal on the steering column? thats what i did to each of the 5 wires and go no horn sound from any of them.

i also took off the horn button, is there a certain way it goes on?

 

so i got it right down to the turn signal switch, big white piece, and on the back was a black wire grounded. i thought it was the horn wire so i took a piece of wire and touched that and the other end touched the steering column, and the horn went off. even on the front there is a little button i can push down on with a spring, i touched a wire to that, and other end to the steering column and the horn went off again.

so what is the horn switch? is it what i was touching? could the black wire not be any good?

please help id like to get this fixed today so i can get my car saftied, i took a picture the button i am talking about is to the right.

 

Here are the installation instructions for a B&M MegaShifter, which I though you mentioned above. Take a look at Figure 1, which shows the location of both the neutal safety swich and the back up light switch. You need to make sure the switch spring arm (on the top in your photo goes in the correct slot on the side of the shifter, so the switch will operate for the correct shifter postions).

The switch is either installed incorrectly or it is bad. Think about it. The back up light should only be on when the shifter is in reverse, not drive or park or neutral. And why would you want to start an automatic tranny car with it in DRIVE????

I have a mechanical speedo, so I won't be much help with the electric speedo. You might want to ask in the transmission board.

Dave

 

First sorry for the confusion. I pointed you to the connector for the windsheild wiper circuit???, not C210

It does sound like you find the right connector though, and you did figure out how to ground the circuit.

OK when you grounded the black wire at the connector, did you take the connector apart or did you leave in connected? I am assuming you left it connected.

Yes, the metal bar at the 4 o'clock position appears to be your horn switch. I am going to assume that when you grounded the horn switch, the connector was still connected. If connector C210 was connected in both cases then I think you may have a bad horn switch. Try depressing the bar portion of the switch, on both ends and see what happens. If no horn, then the switch is bad. By grounding the switch frame (not including the switch contact that needs to close for the horn to sound) and getting the horn to sound you proved the black wire in the steering column is good upto the horn switch.

If the horn sounds when you depress the bar of the horn switch, then I would think the the center cover is either not properly aligned with the horn switch, or whatever is on the cover to close the horn switch is missing or bad.

Other than that, I am not sure what it could be. As for putting the sent cover back on the steering wheel, it may just pop back into place. Take a look at the underside. My has several spring tabs on it that just pop back in to some notches on the wheel.

You are very close on this now. So keep at it and the light will click on

Dave

 

i left the connector together. but i think we are not on the same page, in the picture below i touched the wire to the little button in the blue circle, you can push in on it it honked for me when i grounded it to that. i think YOU are talking about the long tab circled in yellow, i tried to ground it to that and i got nothing.

 

No we were on different pages Any way, I have been looking for tow noghts in my service manual at the expoleded views of the steering column trying to find the horn switch, without any luck.

But you photo gave me a clue. So you grounded the metal item inthe blue circle and the horn sounded. When you to the center cap off the wheel, was there a black wire between the back of the cap and the "pin" in the blue circle? That is what I found in my car. It turns out that the horn switch is the back side of the center cap. There are two metal plates, one with an electrical terminal which the black wire connected to and the other plate holds the center cap on the column. The steering column is effectively grounded, so when you press the center cap for the horn, you operate the horn switch and sound the horn, at least on my car. I am assuing yours may be the same.

The first photo, spring_1 shows the back side of my center cap. Note the electrical terminal, gray and to the right of my thumb. Also note the gray metal through the various holes. Black and next to my thumb is one of the spring pieces that hold the center cap to the column. You can also see that my thumb is pressing a conrer of the balck metal to the gray metal. This is the action of closing the horn switch.

The second photo, pigtail_2, shows where the balck wire connects in the column. I did not pull my steering wheel, but I suspect if I did, I would find a "pin" like the one in your blue circle. (Sorry but the wire terminal is a bit blury) The wire connects to the "pin?" at about the 11 o'clock position

Third photo, spring_2 shows me pressing a corner of the black metal down to the gray metal, and getting a short (almost, need to press a little harder). So when the two metal plates contact, the ground is made for the horn relay and the horn should sound.

Did you center cap have a wire connected to it when you removed it? And does it have a terminal lug? If yes to both questions, you might try installing a wire from the pin in your blue circle to the terminal on the center cap and see if the horn works then.

I don't know i fyou have a stock steering wheel or an after market one, but I think you should be able to get a jumper for the horn from a Chev dealer, the junkyard, or perhaps one of the parts stores. I haven't looked for one, but they should be out there.

Dave

 

the white plastic piece that goes over the blinker/horn switch piece, the wire with the spring leading to the back of the center cap goes in there and you can turn it so it locks right, well mine is broke so it doesnt stay, maybe i need a new one, but i picked up a Grant Steering wheel so ill try my luck with that.

do you know how the piece go back together, if i need them all, because the Grant comes with an installation kit so i assume i dont need all those big cylinder looking pieces that were attached to the old steering wheel.

 

I have never replaced the steering wheel or column. I have not even tried to take it apart....something about if it ain't broke...don't fix it...

Any way here are three sheets from the 1982 Camaro Service manual regarding the tilt steering column. They are not heavy on directions, but they do give you some ideas on where things go.

It may be that some of the items you removed will not be required or are replaced by pieces in the installtion kit for the Grant steering wheel. You will just have to read the directions to see what is required.

I recommend that you right click each attachment and "Save As" to your comuter. Then open them in your picture viewing software and rotate them 90 degrees....much easier to read that way.

Dave