turn signal madness AARRGGHHH!
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turn signal madness AARRGGHHH!
I have an '85 Z28 and I can't get the front turn signal lights to work. Problems: 1) when head lights are turned on...rear indicators come on but front do not. 2) When turn signal switch is engaged the rear lights light (don't flash) but the front don't do either. 3) when hazard switch is activated, the rear lights flash but the front do not. Have tried so far: 1) replaced entire front light wiring harness 2) replaced all bulbs 3) replaced hazard flasher 4) replaced light fuses I am at my wits end. please email suggestions to owensrob (at) quantusamerica (dot) com thanks
Last edited by owensrob; Aug 12, 2007 at 01:12 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Woodlands, MB, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Posi
Re: turn signal madness AARRGGHHH!
Just for clarification.. Are the front and back park lights working, and the turn signals aren't? Or is it that neither the park lights or the turn signals come on?
Non working turn signal lights that have strange interactions with other lights are usually a symptom of a bad ground somewhere. When other lights are turned on, the signals are finding a path to ground through them.
The first thing I'd do is grab an ohm meter and measure the resistance between the metal frame of the turn signal bulb socket to a good solid ground on the body. There should only be a couple of ohms maximum. If there is resistance there, then the ground is bad. It's a good idea to pull the turn signal fuse or disconnect the battery when you do this.. If you get across 12 volts with an ohm meter, you can ruin it.
Once that's done, connect the battery or replace the fuse and put the meter in the Volts position. Now measure between the contacts at the base of the bulb socket and ground to see if you have 12 volts. (Have the park lights and turn signals on when you measure). You should see 12 volts on the contact pins on the bottom of the socket.
If you don't have 12 volts, then you'll have to trace the wires back to the fuses or flashers, or to the turn signal switch on the steering column to see why you don't have 12 Volts where you should.
Non working turn signal lights that have strange interactions with other lights are usually a symptom of a bad ground somewhere. When other lights are turned on, the signals are finding a path to ground through them.
The first thing I'd do is grab an ohm meter and measure the resistance between the metal frame of the turn signal bulb socket to a good solid ground on the body. There should only be a couple of ohms maximum. If there is resistance there, then the ground is bad. It's a good idea to pull the turn signal fuse or disconnect the battery when you do this.. If you get across 12 volts with an ohm meter, you can ruin it.
Once that's done, connect the battery or replace the fuse and put the meter in the Volts position. Now measure between the contacts at the base of the bulb socket and ground to see if you have 12 volts. (Have the park lights and turn signals on when you measure). You should see 12 volts on the contact pins on the bottom of the socket.
If you don't have 12 volts, then you'll have to trace the wires back to the fuses or flashers, or to the turn signal switch on the steering column to see why you don't have 12 Volts where you should.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Re: turn signal madness AARRGGHHH!
Just for clarification.. Are the front and back park lights working, and the turn signals aren't? Or is it that neither the park lights or the turn signals come on?
Non working turn signal lights that have strange interactions with other lights are usually a symptom of a bad ground somewhere. When other lights are turned on, the signals are finding a path to ground through them.
The first thing I'd do is grab an ohm meter and measure the resistance between the metal frame of the turn signal bulb socket to a good solid ground on the body. There should only be a couple of ohms maximum. If there is resistance there, then the ground is bad. It's a good idea to pull the turn signal fuse or disconnect the battery when you do this.. If you get across 12 volts with an ohm meter, you can ruin it.
Once that's done, connect the battery or replace the fuse and put the meter in the Volts position. Now measure between the contacts at the base of the bulb socket and ground to see if you have 12 volts. (Have the park lights and turn signals on when you measure). You should see 12 volts on the contact pins on the bottom of the socket.
If you don't have 12 volts, then you'll have to trace the wires back to the fuses or flashers, or to the turn signal switch on the steering column to see why you don't have 12 Volts where you should.
Non working turn signal lights that have strange interactions with other lights are usually a symptom of a bad ground somewhere. When other lights are turned on, the signals are finding a path to ground through them.
The first thing I'd do is grab an ohm meter and measure the resistance between the metal frame of the turn signal bulb socket to a good solid ground on the body. There should only be a couple of ohms maximum. If there is resistance there, then the ground is bad. It's a good idea to pull the turn signal fuse or disconnect the battery when you do this.. If you get across 12 volts with an ohm meter, you can ruin it.
Once that's done, connect the battery or replace the fuse and put the meter in the Volts position. Now measure between the contacts at the base of the bulb socket and ground to see if you have 12 volts. (Have the park lights and turn signals on when you measure). You should see 12 volts on the contact pins on the bottom of the socket.
If you don't have 12 volts, then you'll have to trace the wires back to the fuses or flashers, or to the turn signal switch on the steering column to see why you don't have 12 Volts where you should.
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