i just took out my old a/c box and put in a non a/c box and there was a relay bolted to the old box. i want to cut out some of the wires in order to clean up some of the mess. i already cut out the plug that went to the condensor and am unsure of the purpose of the realy. is it important or can i cut it out?????

 

The realy is the blower high speed relay. With the A/C box, when you select high for the blower speed, the realy is activated and connects the blower motor to a fusible link connected to the battery/starter. You do not need it for your non A/C box, but most of the blower motor wires are connected to it. Take a look at this link to see a wiring diagram for the A/C blower motor connections.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...s-blk-ppl.html


Attached below is a wiring diagram for a non A/C blower motor. Things to note, the non A/C blower motor only has three speed positions, the A/C blower motor has four speed positions. For the A/c box, the orange wire for high speed goes to the realy coil. For the non A/C box the orange wire takes the place of the purple wire for the A/C blower motor. However the orange wire is #14 AWG for the non A/C unit and #16 AWG for the A/C unit. The #14 wire is rated to carry more current that the #16 wire.

What is unclear to me is if the connector to the Blower Resistor connects to the non A/C box Blower Resistor directly or if it is a differrent connector. Also are the two blower motors rated the same or are they different.

I would be inclined to keep the realy and mount it to your non A/C box and to remove the Blower Resistor from you A/C box and install it in you non A/C box, and leave all the wiring for the blower motor as it is now. In the end you only lose two wires from the blower motor wiring ir you remove the realy, the red wire to the fusilbe link for the high speed connection, and the Tan wire for the M1 speed of the blower motor. You wold also have to splice the two purple wires from the realy base with the orange wire from the realy base for the power to the blower motor and the two black wires from the realy base will also have to be splice for the blower motor ground circuit.

So study the wiring diagrams and decide how you want to do it. You can certainly hack the wiring and remove the realy, but how good will it look and will it casue you problems in the future???


Dave

 

would that relay be why my high dont work on my HVAC system, all other speeds work

 

Just checked it out, my relay is ok, it clicks on and off but i have no power from the power feed that is the switched to go to the blower motor, where isn that fuseable link???

 

The Haynes Manual shows it as either Fusible Link B or G, with a red wire from the relay to the Orange fusible link. I don't know where the fusible links are located for your model year, but I would look at the battery connection to the starter and near the battery. You may have to trace the red wire from the blower motor relay back to the link to get the right link, as your model year has several fusible links in the engine compartment.

How do you know the relay is bad and you have no power to it from the red wire. Did you remove the relay and put a voltmeter or test lamp from the red wire terminal to ground? You can do this with the car off, as the fusilbe link that supplies this wire is HOT all the time, unless the battery is disconnected.

Even though you can hear the realy close the contact arm the contact point itself could be burned, or corroded to where you do not get electrical contact enabling current to flow to the motor. So confirm weather you have voltage at the red wire terminal or not. Then you will know if it is the fusilbe link or the relay, or the red wire between the relay and the fusible link. I beleive this fusible link supplies power to several circuits, so they would all be dead if the link had melted.

Let me know what you find out.

Dave

 

thanx for the info. i have already changed the resistors for now but io want to clean up the engine bay by removing as many useless wires as possible. ill have to get into this weekend when i have more time if i come up with something new i'll let everyone know thanx again

 

Dave, is seen all that in my chiltons also wish i knew where it really was, just as royal pain to get into the loom and all to trace it, since it went to a hot all the time i ran it to my always hot aux board under the hood ( i got a dist/fuse block that powers my air compresseor) i put a fuse (30A) on it and loomed it and cut that red wire and hooked up my "custom" wire, i used 10GU wire, works perfect now and i ran my new loom with existing looms so you can even tell its been rigged, and yea i used my multi meter to figure out everything. Now it works perfect. BTW if you are wondering why i got a air compressor it keeps an air tank up to 150 PIS to power a set of air horns off a dump truck, its cool horns are hidden behind the grill LOL