rockit

iTrader: (3)

Hey i searched but no results, four times in a row with different terms, and other times earlier i got the same stuff, so i think search is down.

in anycase i have an 87 GTA, people keep telling me i have no brake lights. third brake light is lighting up fine, i have voltage at the switch(could use a refresher on what the different wire colors are for) and i have hazzards and turn signals still so the bulbs, wiring and switch all ought to be fine, what gives?

82CrossFire Z28

iTrader: (1)

Check here for a schematic with the wire colors for the brake lights. You say you have voltage at the brake switch, but does the contact for you brake light work????? If it does not close when the break pedal is depressed...no brake lights. Note on the schematic that there are two contacts in the switch, one for the thrid brake light and one for the normal brake lights.

If the switch is operating correctly you should see ZERO volts across the contact for you brake light when the brake pedal is depressed. If you see 12 Volts then the switch is bad and should be replaced.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm


Dave

rockit

iTrader: (3)

yea i actually grabbed that schematic(thanks for pulling it up) after i posted. i show zero volts on the normal brake light wire, i can jumper the third light and it works but i can't jumper the regualr lights, i recently replaced the switch trying to get rid of this problem.

sooo next step is to start pulling interior panels i guess.. if I were to use my multimeter to test for ohms, would it be concievable to break the wire at two points, say by the lights and then by the driver seat, and check for excessive resistance to find where the short is? if there was a short shouldn't i see voltage on the circuit?

82CrossFire Z28

iTrader: (1)

When do you show zero volts on the normal brake wire, and where are you measuring it? At the lights it will read zero volts unless the brake pedal is depressed.

There is a connector in the rear, under the trim panel in the trunk area. You can open the connector and break the circuit there. Then you should also be able to disconnect the LT BLU wire at the brake switch. Put your ohm meter acorss these two points. You should read zero ohms, or very close to it. This indicates the wire is continous. If you get an "infinite reading (very high) then the wire is borken some place between the two points where you have the ohm meter connected. (You will probably need to make a jumper wire with some alligator clips to do these measurments.)

With the wire still disconnected at the brake switch, depress the brake pedal. Do you get 12 volts where the LT BLU wire connects? If not, I would say the problem is with the brake switch.

If you do get 12 volts, connect the LT BLU wire to the brake switch but don't connect it in the rear. Now depress the brake switch. Do you get 12 volts at the rear connector, on the brake switch side? If no then you probably have a broken wire somewhere between the brake switch and the rear connector.

Also, since you recently replaced your brake switch, have you confirmed that you have a good connection from the LT BLU wire to the switch

If not, that could be your problem.

You can also test the operation of the brake switch contact by disconnecting both the LT BLU wire to the brake lights and the BRN wire to the STOP HAZ fuse. With the brake pedal not depressed you should read infinite ohms, contact open. With the brake pedal depressed you should read zero ohms, contact closed. If you don't get zero ohms with the pedal depressed, you have a bad contact in the switch. Time for a new switch.

By the way, if you had a short in the circuit you would not see any volts on the circuit because you would blow the fuse, opening the circuit...

Dave