... But I'm at a loss for help. I know this is a Firebird Site, but, 350's are universal...
I have a 1983 Chevy C10. Carb'd 350, Automatic.
I was flushing the Radiator Yesterday, and went to start it when I was done.... nothing.
Turn the key over, Seatbelt light comes on, then, Nothing. No clicking, no nothing. I check battery voltage at all places you can check it, and it's 12.53 most everywhere.
I Continue to try and start it, and the Fusible link on the firewall starts to smoke like a Siv!
I've made sure the Truck is in Park, (Neutral Saftey Switch) and it is for sure.
I went ahead and got a New Ignition Swith (The module on top of the steering Column) And still nothing but smoke... WTF? he truck has had no problems whatsoever, until now, this is so freaking random, I can't even begin to explain it.
Again, Sorry to post about a truck on this forum, but you guys've helped more than you know with my Bird, so, I hope I can get something here...

 

id pull the starter and take it to a parts house to have it checked, you may have blown the link also if it somoked a few times

 

I've checked the Link, and it's A-ok. Even if it weren't, The Starter should still get the things it needs to at least whine at me.
I Wouldn't suspect the Starter because there were no prior indications, y'know? I mean, I'd suspected it, But... I really didn't want to do that... Was hoping it was something easier, haha. Maybe the Solonoid went bad? Err... Ok, Thanks for the input, I'll give it a shot tomorrow (Since I have the day off, because I can't get to work, for obvious reasons. haha) Any other ideas, in the meantime?

 

Alright, I tested the starter today, and it was better than stock standards! I put it back in the truck, and still nothing... this is so freakin annoying! this may be unrelated, but, the Turnsignals don't work... I turn the key over once, to accessories, and the turnsignals and Brake lights don't work... Does this info help at all? Please help me!

 

i wonder if the ing switch is bad.........does anything work when it on "on" like radio, and all

 

seatbelt light used to come on... Hasn't the past few times I've tried it though... afraid I F'd something else up. I don't have a radio in that truck, and I removed the AC... So... Not much left to test. The Headlights still work though. haha. I Got as New Ignition switch for it though... So, That SHOULD be fixed... Still got nothing.

 

WTF???? im dont know.......... someone has got to have an idea of what it can be........prob something super simple

 

dude, You're probably so right. I've spent 20 hours and $70 trying to figure this b!*ch out, and I'm still scratchin my head. My Granpa and both of my uncles have been Auto techs for about 10 years, and none of them have any idea what it could possibly be... I'm about to just yank the 350 that's in the truck, and replace my 305 in my bird with it... frikkin truck... well,if anyone has any ideas, Chances are, I've already done it, but, if not... Input is greatly appreciated!

 

are you absolutely sure the fusible link is not blown? It sounds to me like it is.

 

110% sure. It's right there on the Firewall, and Easy to see. Plus, when it started smokin like a Haitian, Our first reaction was to check it...

 

even though you have checked you fusible link I still would replace it.
if you checked it with a malty meter it may have although continuity to show that it is good. but will not carry enough voltage to turn the starter.
I have seen this before.
hope this helps

 

you know i second that..............now that i think about it i was working on a satty....it had good power to the starter according to the multi, but turns out the wire was so corroded inside it wouldnt send enough to start it......i will second the idea to repalce it anyway or by pass it for a second and see what happens if it works then replace it, you still have the same problem then your right back where you started

 

Alright, I guess I'll pass it by for a turn,a nd see what changes...
I was thinking maybe by trying to start it, but backing up voltage, that maybe I've fried the New Ign. Switch? Any comments? Maybe I should get a new one? I'm not getting the Smoke I used to get... Believe it or not, this concerns me... haha.
I Got a new Solonoid for it today... Bench tested the Starter myself, it runs great. I need to test the Voltage at the Starter while it's in the truck and someone tries to start it, see if I get anything... This is something I should've done a long time ago, I'm sure.
Today I found that the wiring harness that goes behind the Engine wasn't screwed to the engine... I don't know if maybe this cluster of wires got Ground this way, or what, but, I'm going to get a replacement Bolt tomorrow from a Hardware store... Maybe this'll help it? I have no idea, but... I do know that this cluster of wires were meant to be bolted to the engine...

 

idk if any of you guys have mentioned it but...
have you checked the ground? sometimes when my ground is bad or the neg on the battery isnt on right, all the electricals works but it wont start. after tightening the neg cable everything goes back to normal.

 

the Neg cable is deff. connected super well, and As I mentioned in my last post, I found even more ground for it to have, possibly. But, yeah... One concern we had was a Ground within the Solonoid that We didn't want, but, I've cleared that p with a New solonoid... anywho, yeah, thanks for the idea though...
D@mn this thing's annoying...

 

if nothing else is getting power, why would you assume its starter related?
your 12v+ for all systems is fed by the fusiable link on the hot side of the starer. start tracing that wire back to the junction block, find out where you are loosing you power at. i rarley have seen ignition switches go out on these. sounds to me like you arent getting power to the ign switch. have you checked fuses?


smoke indicates a dead short if on the 12+ side, and if its a ground that is smoking, it indicates a bad batt to chassis ground.

 

try the simple, run a positive to the starter, see if it cranks the motor, if it cranks the motor over, then run power to the distributor/coil and hit the starter with power again and see if the motor stays running. if you are good there and the motor stays running, then yeah, you got a bad wire that as said before could be due to a bad wire, fusible link, or I've even had a bad connector where the wire seemed to hold there at the connector but it was really broke off and wouldn't transfer the voltage needed.

Good Luck, i know exactly what you mean about time and money and its going to be something stupid as crap! BEEN THERE, DONE THAT!!

Off to work, i get these sent to my phone so i'll try and think some more as the day goes. Going to do some insurance claims down in Lone Grove, OK where the tornados hit

 

I GOT IT!!! Unfortunatly, my friend, Iroc 86.... You were right... That's not the unfortunate part, the unfortunate part is that I read this Message about 9 hours too late. haha. Thanks anyway, buddy.
What it was was the ignition wire coming from the Junction block was welded to the back of the Distributer... Yeah, Gess it was rubbing till it finally arced to it.
So, I rewired the entire starting circuit from the Junction block back.
Always chase wires first, After checking fuses... because it turns out that trying to start the truck with it grounded like that, killed a 15 a and 30 a fuse...
Alright, thanks a ton to all of you that helped.