Hey there ,I'm looking for some help with my air conditioning ,I want to make it work ,where can I found any help ,a thread ,a diagram of how this work ,I need HELP .Thanks .

 

not to sound rude but what does it not do

does it not blow
does it blow hot
only blow out the defrost
blows on every speed but high

(some common problems)

 

Yep does it blow hot ,The problem is that I don't know how this A/C system works ,I don't know when the A/C compressor is working and when is not ,and how do I know if it need some refrigerant gas ?

 

I would like to know when a/C compressor begins to work, the majority of the cars have a switch who extinguishes or ignites a/C, but in my Camaro I do not see any.Where I can find a thread that it contains information of this

 

You'll want to locate the A/C pressure switch and try to short it out. It's on the aluminum cylinder. If the compressor kicks in then you're low on charge. The A/C is controlled by the heater control panel. Defrost usually makes it run, in addition to other settings. A/C posts are usually found in the cooling board here. Do a search with keywords like A/C, pressure switch, control panel, etc.

 

Its an old car. Find out if its been converted from r12 to 134a. If its been converted then go the the auto parts store and get a can of the 134a. the can will have a gauge built in. All you need to do is hook up the hose, the can comes with, to the port on the a/c line. Read the gauge with the a/c on, & the car running. If it shows no charge then add the 134a till it does. Make sure you get the can of 134a with oil added, if not you will screw something up. turn the car off when your done filling it then spray some soap water over all the lines, & check for leaks. If you have some then fix the leak and add more 134a.

On the a/c clutch the wires right by the clutch on the front of the compressor are the ones you jump. Dont really have to do that though if you dont have a charge. Charge the system & look for leaks first.

 

How do I know if its has been converted from r12 to 134a ?

 

the ports on it

its about conversions on a rice burner but it may help

http://www.sadik.net/nissan/howto/ac_r12.htm

this may help also
http://www.e38.org/pparish/ac_works.htm

 

Well If its not converted you will need to convert it anyways, so buy the bottle of 134a and see if it connects to the hose fitting. If It does not work then you will need a conversion kit. Not hard stuff to do. Everyone will tell you to get a new line (not sure what the line is called) & a filter/dryer. I have never changed that stuff on my honda, and its going strong still after 3 years, so take your chances on that one, if you want. All I have ever done is just added the 134a, with no troubles so far. Your Hoses will both have fittings but they are not the same size so you don't have to worry about getting them confused.

 

do not convert it if you dont really want to, 134 is cruddy compair to 12, 12 cools alot better than 134a. use freeze 12 you can buy it all day long on ebay......

PROPERLY converting an r12 system to 134a is costly and not just as easy as the conversion you really need to drain the r12 oil out of the compressor, replace the lines (134a molicules are smaller than 12 so they will actually seap out of old hoses when 12 never would of leaked), o rings, pull a vacuum on it for atleast 4 hours and then put the 134a oil in and charge it. r12 and 134a oil mixed will turn to an acid pretty much

now i prob say most of this because i went to school for HVAC and got all the training on it, pleanty of converted systems do fine, but when you got access to the r12 replacement (and its not expensive also) then why not just stick with a good thing....Just IMO unless you are redoing your WHOLE system the dont convert it, also for us "all original" guys aint nothing better than still having a r-12 system thats ice cold

here is freeze 12s link

http://www.freeze12.com/

 

Yep u sound like a mechanic. Thanks to guys like you I picked up a book of my own. Like I said! The conversion I did, and the few others I have done, all still work. Did not do any of that BS. R12 is Illegal as far as I know. Maybe in a few more years my cars a/c might screw up? If, & when it does ill just pay $20 for a junk yard compressor.

Oh ya bro u forgot to mention that if dude does have a leak, (& he should if he needs more charge right) then he needs to vac the system after putting new o rings in anyways. Right? Im just a residential/commercial hvac business owner. What do I know about the car side of it. But hey, my car has nice cold air.

 

"pull a vacuum on it for atleast 4 hours"
^in my post^

anyway i never said the conversion will not work, i even said plenty of systems work fine, but the fact of the matter is, 12 cools better than 134, 134s molicules are smaller than 12's, 134 can leak out of hose that 12 wouldn't leak out of

12 is illeagal to produce, there is still some true 12 out there, but you got to have a refrigerant handlers card to buy, freeze 12 is like 12, its 100% compatable with r12 and has none of the downfalls that 134 has in a 12 system, freeze 12 is like ICOR's NU-22, tech called R417a....

 

Ok man so what your saying is that you have to vac for 4 hours even if your not converting? I charged up a few big rigs, the right way and it never took near that long with a fully automatic machine. Cant screw that up. I was talking to a fellow hvac student tonight and he said he took the automotive course also. His instructor said at first everyone changed the o rings but after seeing cars still blowing cold air years later that had original o rings, most people stopped changing them. oh well two different opinions. Gives the guy good info, one way or the other. I do agree with the oil , & that it should not be mixed. Bearings cant take it forever, but so far so good. I say screw it. Its going to break again anyways. Its part of the design.

 

i have always just like to pull a vac on it if it has no charge in it, rather be safe than sorry.......i just know what i was told in school (it was a while back to) the technolgy has changed to so the conversion my be alot better now than it was, i was in school for it in 2000, 134 had been in cars aprox 6-8 years at that time, so it was the new kid on the block.

just IMO on my car i like that original r12, and its kinda nice to say i still got an ice cold 12 car.....BTW i have not heard anything bad about the freeze 12 but i got looking last night, what ever happened to the NU-22 (r417a) you know????

 

No man I dont know much about auto ac. I had a junk car that some shop wanted to charge me out the rear on, so I just did what I did on my own. Its still working so im glad I did it that way. I mean what did I have to loose. It was broken when I started. I do agree 100% with vacing the crap out of any system, but not everyone has the time or money. 4 hours in a shop seems like a house payment.

 

OK ,I really appreciate your help ,this weekend I'm going to work on my A/c and hopefully get it work .

 

STRIKER
i got a cheap vac pump from harbor freight it gets the job done just the few time i use it, working on one of my cars or a freinds.....

but yea they will charge you 4 hrs in labor for that pump to run......while they go down to the local choke and puke and eat lunch

AREN

tell us how it goes.....BTW if you recharge it try to get a can or DYE charge, its a neon green fluid that goes in and help you find leaks, you can see it with your naked eye sometimes, others you may need a black light (UV light) for a slow leak

 

No Joke. Only $15 for the pump too. Had no idea it would be that cheep. Still cant evacuate though. Any cheep solutions for that, other then venting? Reason I ask is that mine does not leak, but still it will break again some day.

 

Freze 12 is just a blend of 80% R134a & 20% R142b. I wouldn't care to put it in my car..
ISCEON-59/ NU-22 is a blend of 50% R134a, 46.6% R125, & 3.4% iso-butane. The latter is there to enable the blend to circulate mineral oil. It's an R22 replacement & I wouldn't care to use it either..

IMO the only viable drop-in replacements for R12 (& others) are hydrocarbon blends. I know the flammability issue makes it controversial, but H(C)FC's are certainly also flammable with the help of the oil in them, plus they make toxic gases when heated. R134a is also known to cause cancer. We drive around with numerous gallons of pressurised gasoline in our cars, so I don't mind 1 pint extra even if the lines go inside, it's easy to smell if it leaks & it dissipates quickly unlike gasoline that runs, spreads & stays.

 

Harbor Freight Rules!!!!! but i still spend to much $$$$ there, see to many cheap things i like

if it breaks id just vent it (if i had to to fix the problem) then fix the prob and run a vac on it, like i said a cheap pump will get the job done, and cheaper than paying someone, then you got a pump, if a freind needs use of one say bring me a case of beer and ill let you use it

 

That store is pretty cool but I have bought things from their that break, & they don't stand behind anything. Told me to get a hold of the manufacturer. Maybe I was just spoiled from buying most everything from the snap-on & cornwell. We have two Harbor Freight stores close by, & the last three times I have gone had all been bad. Two times they didnt have what I needed. the last time I bought, was a dolly. What a pos lol. broke the first time I used it. Wal mart sells a better dolly. Thats bad.

 

the power tools seem to last good.....there is a few things that are junk, you just got to watch yourself there

 

Ya I got the impact sockets they sell for cheap. They are very strong. I sues some 1/2" drive sockets on a 3/4" impact and they never broke. Saved a lot of money. Think about what snap-on would want for the same set.

 

we are soooooo off the subject now but my friend got a tool box from harbor freight that cost $600 , another friend has one exactly like it but it say mac on in, he paid i think like $1400 and that was like a scratch and dent price

ohh and the $600 one included liners for each trey

 

Sweet deal. I got the waterloo box that's like 6' tall with a side locker for one g. Waterloo makes craftsman boxes. Maybe a few others too. Got it used off the snap-on truck. At clarks tools it was over $1500. One thing I couldn't skimp on though, was the wrenches. I have like 6 sets total of snap-0n. Rachets with flank drive. The one set that cost the most was over $400. Thats the one that didnt even ratchet. Cant use ratchet wreches every where.