ok so i rebuilt my 305 tbi, but once i did the base timing, i plugged in the electronic advance (when the car is off), it makes the engine buck like crazy and then it stalls it. ive tried reseting the comp, i have no idea what to do about this problem. anyone have any ideas.

would it be easyier to get a vacuum advance distributer. i want one but im not sure how bad it will mess up the comp. cause i had a huge issue with fuel due to the ignition module, it was kicking off the injectors, so im not sure how touchy the comp will be without that peice, or can i still keep that with the vacuum advance set up?

someone please help me

 

Not really. You don't want to go back several decades just because there's a small glitch in something, believe me.

What does the timing gun show when the engine is bucking? What does the ECM report as timing?
I'd try disconnecting the ESC module first, that can be a culprit.
I'll post more ideas as they come to me.

Lou

 

What is the ESC? is that that wire on the side?

 

ESC is the Electronic Spark Control. It's a bad name, though. It should be called morelike Electronic Knock Amplifier.
It's a square module mounted next to your brake booster. It will have 5 pins (I believe) and if you unplug it and the engine runs better, that will tell you that the ESC circuit is likely bad.

Lou

 

do i unplug that piece with the electronic advance wire(brown/black wire) plugged in or out?

 

knock sensor, knock sensor, knock sensor, I'll bet you put the old one back in and went on.. Been there done that more than once!!! when you put a wrench, (or pliers my trick) on the "nut" provided to remove the sensor it destroys the sensor internally. the sensor then gives intermitten signals to the ECM thus making the ECM think the timming is advanced to far.... you get the point it is cheap enough to replace and check

 

nope, haven't touched the sensor. i have an idea as to what the problem might be, the sensor thing undernieth the rotor in the cap, its the 8 pointed star thing, i thing its bad cause that explains my distributor knock. but im not sure, im open to almost all suggestions

 

That 8-pointed start thing is called the reluctor wheel and it creates spikes on the pickup coil (yellow and green wires) whose signal is then cleaned up and adjusted by the ignition module (black box inside distributor) and sent to the ECM.

There isn't much you can do to test the pickup coil (besides its resistance) but maybe some AutoZone location can test it, I'd ask.

Lou

 

if the reluctor wheel is messed up will it effect my time even without the electronic advance?

 

ok i changed that esc unit and it made no difference, starts and runs fine for a bit but then it goes back to the same old chugging then stalls. what do i have left, knock sensor and the reluctor wheel?

 

How long does it run fine for? IOW, how long before it starts chugging?
Have you checked the fuel pressure by any chance?

Lou

 

Ok let's get things defined, by chugging? are you talking about black smoke out of the exaust, or back firing and accelerator peddal down to go and it surges, give us a better explanation please, then we can send you in the right direction


P.S. if you have a lack of fuel issue, yoy will get a knock sensor error, but it usually is accompaned with a lean O2 fault as well