like i asked b4 i did an intake gasket on my 88 iroc z put everything back together and now no spark any one help?

 

I accept paypal, or certified money orders, no checks please!

 

Sorry, could not help myself,LOL. Is your car a tpi, tbi, or a carb?

 

lmao your funny

 

oh duh that might help tpi 305

 

oh yea new cap rotor coil
ps..... intake was not tight at all but maybe 2 bolts it would run then decide not to run so hot but b4 intake gasket it ran like it was running on 3 cylinders lol

 

I am not real familiar with TPI stuff, so it may be something real simple that I am not aware of, did you double check all the wiring connectors? this may seem obvious, but the only part of the ignition that should have been disturbed is the wiring having to be disconnected, then hooked back up, It very well could just be one wire.

 

You don't have to pay but it might help to PAY ... attention.
Posting something N times doesn't get you results any sooner.
And good description also helps.

For a no-spark situation, it's not hard to eliminate the components.
You can do a search on "spark" and you'll find a lot of info.
Or you can try basic test, such as:
- Repeatedly ground the white wire on the coil and watch the spark from the high-tension coil wire. If you get spark, your coil is good.
- Test the same but while cranking the engine (won't start). That will eliminate the distributor.
- Same test but watch each plug wire. That will eliminate the cap and plug wires.
- Disconnect the Set Timing connector (brown wire with white stripe) on the passenger side, by the blower, and test spark again. It would eliminate ECM problems.

Like I said, a search will actually give you more advice.

Hope this helps.
Lou

 

check your ignition control module at a autozone for free. Its very sensitive, so dont let them man-handle it, its very sensitive. and when reinstalling it ((WARNING))(be sure to use thermo white grease)(do not use spark plug wire grease, but use special module grease its white, or clear. its hard to get, id try napa too, its vital to use it and ground the bottom of the module to the dizzy and use the grease in between or it will burn up from heat after running the car for 6 minutes or so. so use the the thermo grease. now that thats out of the way...next see if any of the wires(not plug wire) going to the ecm still have the outer plastic insulator on them, sometimes the are grounded out by the cap. next check fuses. next did you reinstall the spring and insulator for the main coil in cap and that sheet metal ground in cap coil? sometimes when the pickup coil(not main coil) goes bad, the Ecm doesnt have a idea when to spark. maybe even check to see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal with the engine at tdc. and if you have a haynes manual, verify that the plug wires are on the rite plugs, and terminals. that should help.. and FYI when replacing a bad coil, its recommend the ignition control module be replaced as well because in the final stages of a coil failure, its actually hurts the ignition control module too and vice versa. its most likely a dizzy/power/timing component thats hurting you. BUT if the car was running like a miss, then check your injector wire harness to fuse and ecm.