Drove my car to work today just fine, and I haven't had any prior starting issues. I turn the car off, go about my business, go to leave 10min later and the car will not start. I turn the key over and the dash lights come on, I can see the SES, INFL RESTRAINT, and the SECURITY lights. The security light either does not come on, or comes on and stays on, where as it used to come on and then turn off, not sure what that means but anyways....

Turning the key over doesn't do anything besides turn the electronics on. The starter solenoid doesn't click, the starter motor doesn't spin. The battery (and another battery) tested just fine. I turned the ignition on and jumped power from a jump box to the ignition wire on the solenoid and the starter spins, contacts and cranks the engine, but it will not start. I checked for the fuel pump and I can hear it kick on, there is fuel at the rail but I couldn't tell you what the pressure was.

I then pulled the key and tested it with a DMM and the resistance is 1.91k ohm, which is within range for vats value #7 (Design resistance - 1,870, Minimum resistance - 1,795, Maximum resistance - 1,965) or so I believe.

The only thing I can think of that could have failed is either the contact points in the ignition cylinder or the VATS module itself. What surprises me is how suddenly the component failed.

I know bypassing the VATS system with the resistor trick will eliminate the problem with the lock cylinder itself, but what if the VATS module has failed? How could I go about bypassing it?

Also, if the problem were with the neutral safety switch, when I had the key on and jumped power to the solenoid and the motor cranked, it still would have started, correct?

Tomorrow I am spending the whole $18 to have a new key and resistor cut, I do not think it will solve my problem but I do need a spare key anyways, do you think my best starting point is to bypass with the resistor?

If I do the resistor trick, I just use the resistor(s) to connect the two small white wires together, right? Better yet, could I disconnect the two sets of wires and cut the larger wires with enough slack to solder the larger wires together with the resistor(s) so that I might be able to solder outside of the car?

I look forward to any input you may have, I am at a loss and currently have no other transportation until this is solved...

Thanks!

 

Part of troubleshooting is ruling out potential causes of your problem. Temporarily connecting a resistor or pack of resistors into the VATS harness will eliminate the key and the lock cylinder as potential possibilities. If it starts and runs fine that way, you can address the key or the lock, if it doesn't it's something else.

The VATS module is on the back of the dash, it's intentionally located where you can't really get at it without removing the entire dash assembly.

Truthfully, VATS doesn't often cause problems. Keys wear out, lock cylinders wear out, and sometimes the thin VATS wires fracture at the lock cylinder. Chances are if you fix it right once, and get a new ignition key cut every 10 years or so, it'll won't cause you many problems.

 

Draco,

What was the cause? I'm having the same exact issues with my 88 GTA, but it'll start eventually start. I think Im going to get my ignition key re-done as well.

Thanks

Jeff

 

goodluck with vats, tearing up that steering columns a PITA, id say get a new cylinder.chances are your wires came loose inside around the cylinder, only thing thats really lame is the new cylinders come with a different key shapes, so imo i wouldnt necessarily go out dishin money to recut for the key you have now