2nd Rear Defrost Switch Shorting Out!!!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Mass
Car: 1989 IROC-Z 100% Original
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
2nd Rear Defrost Switch Shorting Out!!!
Rear Defrost Switch Blowing! 2nd one!!
On the day I bought my Iroc, I was driving home and I hit the Rear Defrost Button. It was working fine. I turned it off.. then turned it back on. All of a sudden there was a surge the volts dropped, lights dimmed, and the rear defrost switch blew. I was like really....
I checked all the fuses and they're good. So I figured just the rear defrost switch blew. I bought another rear defrost switch, # 14029595 installed it and I didn't even get to turn it on and it blew. As I plugged the harness into the new defrost switch I heard a little pop and I was like..No. I clicked it to go on and nothing, no defrost light. I tried again and nothing. The 2nd rear defrost switch blew as soon as I plugged it in. Why? I took it out and smelled the 5 metal pronges and I could smell a burnt smell.
I'm guessing I have a short somewhere and an open circuit? I looked up and down the rear defrost wires on the hatch and didn't see anything wrong. Has this ever happened to anyone? Where should I start looking for a short? I'm not buying a 3rd defrost switch until I diagnose where the short is first.
Any thoughts??
Thanks
On the day I bought my Iroc, I was driving home and I hit the Rear Defrost Button. It was working fine. I turned it off.. then turned it back on. All of a sudden there was a surge the volts dropped, lights dimmed, and the rear defrost switch blew. I was like really....
I checked all the fuses and they're good. So I figured just the rear defrost switch blew. I bought another rear defrost switch, # 14029595 installed it and I didn't even get to turn it on and it blew. As I plugged the harness into the new defrost switch I heard a little pop and I was like..No. I clicked it to go on and nothing, no defrost light. I tried again and nothing. The 2nd rear defrost switch blew as soon as I plugged it in. Why? I took it out and smelled the 5 metal pronges and I could smell a burnt smell.
I'm guessing I have a short somewhere and an open circuit? I looked up and down the rear defrost wires on the hatch and didn't see anything wrong. Has this ever happened to anyone? Where should I start looking for a short? I'm not buying a 3rd defrost switch until I diagnose where the short is first.
Any thoughts??
Thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Lost Defrost
Originally Posted by Memphisfbody
mine does the same thing.
Therefore inspect the purple wire with a white stripe coming out of the switch.
With the car totally turned off, unplug the heavy wire going to the rear window grid on the +side, then use an ohmmeter to determine if the wire is shorted to ground.
It also sounds like the circuit breaker which protects the switch is defective or has been bypassed.
You can check for proper operation of the breaker by removing it and connecting an adjustable power supply to see if it trips above 30 amps.
If you don’t have access to the aforementioned test equipment just replace the breaker, making sure the PO didn’t bypass it.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
My Brakes Don’t Work AT ALL When The Car Is In The Air
.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AkDrifted
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
6
Aug 17, 2015 07:45 PM
dhonda200
Transmissions and Drivetrain
6
Aug 11, 2015 11:50 PM
