I am looking for a short it seems at the moment.
Last week a garage was resetting my timing, and somehow my positive battery cable, came to be touching my headers, and burnt a whole through the battery cable.
The replaced red cable from Battery to starter.
I noticed some the insulation on a smaller red wire, coming off the same terminal on the starter, was cracked open, I electrical taped around the cracked insulation for now. ( I didn't see the broken insulation till after I went through a car wash and had them spray the undercarriage
I replaced the thick black ground wire from the battery negative side to the engine block, as battery threads stripped, and so ended up the part that screwed into the battery. Also replaced less then one year old battery becouse threads stripped .
So then my headlight door motors stop working? I thought it was annoying the first day they were stuck open. Then they got stuck closed So now I can't drive when its dark!

Tail Fuse Blows before doors can move.
Wiring diagram looks like the
Light switch connects to Tail fuse by an Oran/ Black Wire
Lights Monitoring Module conected to tail fuse by Orange/ black wire.

CTSY fuse is in the diagram and has on it
Horn, roof light, instrument cluster.
Also shows Antenna relay in the same diagram on the fuse box

I did a test light test in the manuel testing connector c1 on the Lights monitoring Module
if the fuse is not blown all test good there.
12v at apropriate wires and ground wire workings. 2 red 12v wires, a white 12v, a yellow no power, and a black ground wire.
When I turn console light on everything still reads fine at this connector.
When I turn on the running light/cluster lights, the white wire at this connection goes dead, no reading between white and known good ground, or ground wire and white.
With Lights monitoring module disconected, c1 and c2 connector.
When I turn on the headlights, yellow wire wakes up but only 11.23 volts instead of 12.16. (Guessing Yellow wire is the switch giving the signal to the lights monitoring module for the headlight motors, But I am guessing it should be reading battery Voltage not a 1volt drop?) Connector C2 plugged in fuse does not pop.
Realizing 12volt supposed to be supplied through white wire when headlights are supposed to close, and that yellow wire is active when motors supposed to open.

Followed yellow wire through firewall, measured 11.23v at firewall
Yellow wire at light switch still reading 11.23,
So wiring from switch to lights module should be good along the yellow wire, lets see were yellow wire leads me from here.

Measuring volts at Tail Fuse, reads 12V everything off. Lights control module disconected. Reads aprox 1/2 volt less when flip switch to try and raise headlights.

Found the culprit. A sidemarker got filled with water, and the bulb and socket had been sitting drowned in water. Difficult to get into the small socket to clean corrosion.