This month marks the first time I've driven my car in three years. I've had Lon's headlight repair kit for that time and had that installed along with TrickFlow cylinder heads and a full MSD ignition system. Well the headlights worked fine for a couple of days but then the passenger side wouldn't go down after it went up. If I manually put it down it would go back up once the headlights were turned on but then again, it wouldn't go back down. Then the driver's side headlight started doing that and soon after the lights wouldn't go up or down.. Based on my search of old threads I narrowed it down to fuses under the driver's side dash and/or the Headlight Control module. As I posted in Icariusflight's thread my car doesn't have the twin 15 amp fuses for the headlights. I dunno if that is year specific or not, because instead I was treated to one for VATS and the other for something I can't remember. There were two empty slots, one for power seats and the other was something else I can't remember.. Anyway, I moved up the Control module, unplugged it and took it out and then took it apart to look at it. Nothing was burned up at it didn't smell funny so I put it back together and smacked it against the wall a few times for good measure This got the driver's side to go up & down but the passenger side would only go up, just like before. Then i got to thinking.. I manually started each headlight's decent by turning the **** on each motor clockwise one full turn or so. Then I went and switched the headlights off. Success, they both went down. So long as the motors were started manually the headlights would work as they were supposed to. So my question is this, if I replace the headlight module will this issue go away or do I need to take the headlight motors apart and lube them to decrease the resistance? I say that because perhaps the resistance is what is causing the module to kick out once it detects the extra load. What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance,
Derek

 

C'mon, 51 views and not one response? Does LonSal still post on here anymore? Has anyone ever had problems with his kit? I talked to the guy from the shop and he said he greased the hell out of those motors and the gear & bushing area. He also said he tested the module and it checked out so he doesn't recommend replacing it. I dunno, what gives? We both agree that the motors end up binding a bit when the headlights reach the end of their travel. Is there any way to adjust this? If I could get rid of the extra tension on the motors I bet I'd have no problem with the headlights. Please help, anybody!

 

those headlight fuses are over by the tunnel, tucked up in all the under dash crap above the door chime unit. Not over by the fuse block. A stupid place to put them IMO.

It does sound like the module though. The one in my 92 acted up one, and just simply unplugging it and jiggling it around it started working again.

not sure what extra "tension" you are referring too, the motors are supposed to jam against the frame to make them stop. If you were to remove the motor from the car, take the arm off and hit it with power, the lift arm will spin in circles non stop. there should be no extra "tension" on them caused by their internals.

 

I was under the dash and found the door chime unit which is by the trans tunnel and radio housing. I removed it and flipped it over to find some fuses, none were the 15's that I saw in photos when I did my search though. I had a 3 for Vats and like a 25 for something else. I had two empty slots, one for power seats and the other for something else I obviously don't have. Does your 86 have the fuses?

When I was messing with my headlights I noticed the motors are supposed to jam up against the frames, which is what causes the extra current demand which thus triggers the module? to cut the power to the motors. I think binding is a better way to describe what's going on. It's like the headlights get stuck in the up position and when I go to turn them off the module thinks they're already closed because there's too much load on them from being stuck up. Now If I come in with a pair of pliers and give them 1/4 turn in the right direction they'll come right down when I switch them off. I can feel the resistance myself when I go to turn the motors. That's why I'm curious to see if there's some adjustment for the motors or if maybe my module is bad. I have no idea...

 

 

Never had the problem of just one acting up. Both of mine would only open when they wanted to. Lights were on but would not pop up. Headlight Control Module was bad (box next to brake booster on firewall). I hear you can get refurbished ones for around $60. I opened mine and resoldered the 9 contact points on the circuit board and haven't had a problem since. I finally found a spare at a junk yard for $10. I keep it in the car just in case my fix stops working. When I plugged it in to check it, the lights would open but not close. Performed the same procedure and it works fine.