I have had it happen about 3 times in 2 years. The other morning I tried to start my RS, and It wouldn't crank. No solenoid tic tic tic, no nothing. I did have power though. I didn't have time to mess with it cause I needed to get to work. When I got home it started right up. I am thinking it may be the pass key system. Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

Correct me if im wrong, but I believe the security light on the dash comes on if its the security (vats). Could be a dead spot on the starter.

 

I thought of the dead spot also, but why wouldn't it stay "dead". It started right up after I tried it later.

 

I dont know the technical side of what happens, but they wont start (no sound at all) at the least convient times. Then when you get home they start like nothing happened making you question your sanity, or if the event even really happened. I dont know the diagnostics of testing for this. Every vehicle of mine that has done this had over 100K miles on it which made replacing the starter a no-brainer. Even if it wasnt the starter at 100k, I knew the starters didnt have much life left in them.

 

So you have had starters with flat spots do the same thing as mine? The infrequency and rendomness is what makes solving this sort of thing most difficult.

I would also like to disable the V.A.T.S. quite useless.

 

when it didnt start, did the security light stay lit? does it light up then go out when you put the key in and turn to the run position?

 

My small red security light is always on, and subtly flashing briht/dim, but it starts except for the random problem.

 

could bt the vats module starting to give out. next time it doesnt start with the key, try jumping the starter with a screw driver. if it spins that way then its not a problem with the starter, but with the cranking circuit.

 

Mine were dd, I dont know how frequently you drive yours. Mine were a period of about 3 months intermitten gradually increasing in freqency. It would be once a month, then once every two weeks, then once a week, then new starter. No problems since.

I never had problems with VATs, I just disabled it for my LS1. I will be replacing it with a Viper alarm, I just want some anti-theft system in there.

 

I would like to either fix, or disable the VATS system. Where I drive, and park I don't feel it necessary to have a security system. I thought it may be my key pellet with a slight flaw. Like a flawed computer processor that works most of the time, but once in a while will freeze up.

 

the only way to elminate the actual VATS module from the equation would be to get the ecm tuned to delete VATS, or buy a VATS bypass box. the resistor trick only bypasses the column part of VATS, not the VATS module.

 

Is there any way you can tell me how to go about the detuning or bypassing vats?

 

if you have the ability to reprogam the computer via a cable and a laptop and software, i think theres just a setting in there than needs to be switched off. bypassing VATS completely requires a bypass box. available from places like hawks thirdgen parts. ive never done any ecm tuning so im not sure on it. but im sure people over in the prom or tuning board will know that.

basically vats works like this. you insert your key in the column, which completes a circuit to the vats module. the module senses the resistance on the circuit reated by the resistor pellet in your key. if it detects the right resistance it sends a specific signal to the ecm.
the bypass box gets wired into a switch 12v source and generates the same signal as the VATS module, thus bypassing the entire VATS system.

 

tuning it out of the ecm makes it work regardless of that signal being present or not.

 

I might make a post in the ecm area. I thought maybe the key I had reproduced might have something to do with my problem.

 

its a possibilty, you can try the resistor trick for a while and see if that resolves the issue. it it does then its a problem with either the key or the contacts in the switch

 

I didn't give in any consideration until now that the hardware store key might just have a slightly faulty pellet. It is smaller than the original pellet. If it is the problem, I'll have to wait 6 months to know, cause that's the last time I had the problem.

 

Not entirely true

With it turned off in the ECM, the injectors will fire, but the starter enable relay is controlled solely by the VATS module

The problem the OP is describing sounds like a dying starter thats not too fond of heatsoak. But, lets rule out VATS first

Find the starter relay behind the drivers kick panel near the hood release. Pope the relay out and take some scrap 10-12ga wire and bend it into a U, then push the leads in to bridge the two largest wires from the relay socket. Drive it around for a while and see if the problem persists

If it doesnt, VATS was the culprit and you need to do the resistor trick
If it comes back, replace the starter. FYI newer 4.3L V6 trucks and LT1's have a ministarter from the factory that lasts a long time and bolts right up. Much easier to swing around than the 25lb monster we get

 

The problem is.... I have had this happen only 3 times in 2 years. I don't think it's heat soak because the last time this happened the engine was cold.

 

actually something like this has happened to me b4, and my reason? the neutrol safety switch. where the back wheels against something, or raised up a little? if it happens again put the car in neutrol let it roll some then try to start it, what i did and it started right away.

 

I would like to disable the safety switch anyway. Worth a try. Funny thing is it was in the same position each time when it decided to start. Each time the car was relatively flat. In a drive way, or at the car wash.

 

could of been as simple as you getting in and out, makeing the car settle more. dont now for sure just my 2 cents, but everything u where describing was wut happened to me. ofcourse i dont hav this problem anymore, did a 5spd swap haha

 

Yeah that would fix it. Did this happen once in a blue moon like mine does? It is the infrequency of the problem that makes it hard to fix.

 

ya had the car for 2-3 years now. 1st year didnt drive it much, happened once in the 2nd year, 3rd year its a 5spd ^-^.

 

It does sound like what I have. Only one thing. The little red security light is lit, but not solid. it subtly goes from bright to dim about twice a second. But,,, on the other hand, the problem would not be so infrequent. How do I fix the safety switch?

 

ur sercuity light is red? mines yellow and as far as ik thats the factory color 0o and as for the safety switch could buy a new one but i dont think its ur switch i think its just being picky, may need to adjust the shift cable. but buy a new one or cut the purple and green and splice them together ( i belive it purple and green, i think its the 2 thinkest wires going to the switch) this tells the comp ur in park or nuetrol and will start the car. WARNING! if the trans is in gear the car will still try to start and damage to the car could happen.

 

What is the easiest way to access those wires?