**UPDATED** My car is a 92 Camaro RS TBI 5 speed. The other night my car wouldn't shut off. The next morning it wouldn't start. The key cylinder doesn't stop at the run position and doesn't spring back from the crank to the run position, if you know what I mean. So I pulled the cylinder and it seems to be functioning properly. So I took a pair of needle-nose pliers, with the key in the cylinder for the VATS, and I manually turned the switch with the cylinder out of it's little hole. The same thing happened - Nothing! No resistance, no lights, no anything. Can someone please lend some insight!?!? I know this is my 1st post but I've searched the internet for information since about 7pm Wednesday night - that being said, the search engine for this site sucks, most forum searches do though.

 

im not sure if its the same problem in my 92, but on the left side of the steering column there is a joint for the ignition (i think for the adjustable steering wheel) but in ours the joint wont stay connected and we had to cut a hole so we could push it together when we start and turn it off

 

Ok this is where I'm at. I've broken it down this far. Can you tell me, KuroNeko, what your talking about? I seen the mechanism on the left that unlocks the wheel - it seems to have another function but I can't tell what.



Again, the key switch is turning as it should, but it's like the cylinder isn't connected in anyway to anything.

 

It can't work with the key cylinder out. The slot on the back turns a tang on the column that pushes a rod down the column into the ignition switch similar to the high/low beam rod. That's what makes the necessary electrical connection to start the car. I've never personally had to deal with that switch, but it sounds like your problem might lie there

 

with the following link you should be able to figure out whats wrong, but i believe you may have a bad rack. look at the first picture on page 25 here,
http://www.diyfiero.com/dropspot/Jaz...ck_Rebuild.pdf

 

I knew all that and had that covered. The next part about the rod is what I didn't know and I couldn't find ANYTHING that mentioned that. This being my first ignition problem I didn't even know it existed. Of course this was my problem. I knew it was something to do with the mechanism b/c all the electronics and the cylinder worked fine. It was when I tilted the steering wheel that things started to go wrong. Thanks for the information - even though I already found the problem. Definitely a learning experience and luckily a very inexpensive one.

Now any ideas how to hook the rod back up to the cylinder mechanism? It all goes into this plastic cover thing and I can't see how to get it out of the way to reconnect anything.

 

No sorry, never had to deal with that stuff, just had an idea how it works. When I can't figure out how to do something I occasionally hit the pick-n-pull and carefully take theirs apart to help figure it out. Works if you have the time and access to one. Have fun

 

did you go to the link i posted?
it has pretty much all the info you need to repair a GM steering column.

part of the last paragraph,..
"Readers Questions: “i need some help here my ignition lock turns but it turns freely and doesnt pull the rod to the ignition switch to start the car. i can start it by pulling the rod and the lock is working properly but i think the little black gear that pulls the rod is stripped. how do i get to this to replace it? ive read this thread up and down and it helps alot but i need specifics on just getting to this gear”
"The most likely problem is the metal sector, that's the part the black gear engages. Those break fairly often when people have symptoms like yours.""

there are 2 pivot pins on each side that will need to be pulled to replace either the rack or actuator rod.
the last picture shows how the lock cylinder, selector gear, rack, and actuator rod work together.

 

This link is old and dead. I am having this same issue with my car. Car starts with one rod engaging, but can't shut off the car unless I push the other rod forward to kill the ignition. Any new help is appreciated!

 

I need this link to work again! It is a dead link and I'm in need of this help

 

You responded to a post that was from 2012. I did a search for you and found a copy here: https://pdfslide.net/documents/jazzm...k-rebuild.html

It isn't a pdf, but it allows you to see the whole document. You can also copy and paste into Word or Google Docs. Hope it helps!

 

Thanks bud! I appreciate it. Yeah 2012 was a while ago but these cars will always need parts and we'll need help fixing them. Its good that I found this forum.

 

This link might be a little better
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf

 

Honestly, just remove the Hush-Panel on the Driver's Side, to see the Steering Column.
If the Lock-Cylinder is not moving the Rod to the Ignition-Switch...
Move it yourself to shut the Engine/ Ignition off.

Just so you know...
the other Rod is for the Low-Beam/ High-Beam Headlamp Switch.