Ok so I repainted my engine bay last week, I unplugged all the sensors and lights, disconnected the big connector by the brake booster, but left the connector behind the passenger side kick panel connected. The only change I made to my wiring harness when reinstalling was new turn signal bulbs, and a new o2 sensor (same as the one it replaced)

I went to start the car, it started and runs, not well since it's not tuned for the turbo setup yet but the motor will idle just fine once it warms up a bit and reaches a balance. I look down at the dash and the SES light is on, ok I think I'm sure I forgot to connect something, so I check out all of the wiring and it all looks good, so I restart the car and the SES light is still on, so I tested everything in the car, well the brights and turn signals cause both left, right, and brights indicators to come on on the dash at the same time Everything was fine before I pull out and reinstalled the under-hood wiring and I changed nothing just pulled it out and put it back in, I'm really at a loss as to what's causing the brights/signals problem, the SES light kinda makes sense but I didn't change anything soooo ????? No I have not pulled codes yet I may drive to the garage and do that in a few minutes

any ideas?

 

ok I pulled codes

15 - Low temperature indicated at engine coolant temp sensor

if the "engine coolant temp sensor" is located on the intake under the throttle body just on the drivers side of the water neck well that was unplugged - my fault!

33 - High voltage (low vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)

I assume this means there is a vacuum leak for a NA car, well since I have a turbo I guess thats why its throwing this code, I can get rid of this issue with the tune I'm sure


As far as the turn signal/brights issue, I'm still in the dark?

Other odd things:

When I had the number 5 and 6 pins connected to pull codes, the drivers side fan was running with the key in "run", when I pulled the jumper wire and left the key in "run" the fan stopped. WTF?!?!

My speedo bounces when I'm at a stop (up to 80+ MPH!), when I start moving it stops and works normally, I have a new SGI5 vs converter box to try since I've been chasing this issue for a while and have already checked all speedo wires for interference.

 

Bumppp - these two questions, anyone have any ideas?

When I had the number 5 and 6 pins connected to pull codes, the drivers side fan was running with the key in "run", when I pulled the jumper wire and left the key in "run" the fan stopped. WTF?!?!

My speedo bounces when I'm at a stop (up to 80+ MPH!), when I start moving it stops and works normally, I have a new SGI5 vs converter box to try since I've been chasing this issue for a while and have already checked all speedo wires for interference.

 

When you put the computer in "diagnostic " mode by jumpering the ALDL ;the fan runs
One way of knowing you are in diagnostic mode

 

hooray! that's good news, it should be added to the "pulling codes" FAQ section

 

on the 91 tpi cars the speed sensor wires goes straight to the ecm and the ecm sends the signal to the speedometer. have you tried a scaner in your car to see what speed is the ecm reading when your speedometer is jumping? and when the speedometer jumps do any of the other gauges flicker or something?

 

no I have not tried a scanner, what exactly do you mean by "scanner"? there is no other change/effect on anything except the speedo

 

a scan tool that you can plugin to the aldl and you can see live data from the ecm.