I'll try to keep this brief. Yesterday my Camaro decided not to start at the gas station (immediately after I pumped $40 worth of gas into it). No cranking, no nothing. At first I thought VATS. But the car was flooded a few weeks back, and that got me to thinking...

So I bypassed the start enable relay behind the driver's kick panel by connecting the big green wire to the big yellow one. Now the engine cranks, but it doesn't seem to be spraying fuel. I can hear the fuel pump priming, so it seems to be working back there. And, for what it's worth, if you pour a little gas down her throat she'll run for a second.

So what do I have to hot-wire to get those injectors pumping?

 

So you most likely have a VATS problem ; all you did was bypass one part ( the starter ) of it

Nothing
Either fix VATS or install a VATS bypass module
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/

that eliminates the need for the fuel enable signal from the VATS module
As a anti theft device it is designed so it can't be "hotwired" easily

 

Thanks for the link. I was hoping I wouldn't have to spend any more money on this thing, but oh well. Of those modules, do I need the 30 Hz version or will the standard one suffice?

Also, the "security" dash light that usually comes on with a VATS problem isn't shining this time. Though the computer is throwing a code 53 (VATS) at me.

Thanks again for the input.

 

Well, you have your diagnosis now!

Two ways to go about it:
1) you can *******-engineer it and bypass VATS in different ways (expensive or inexpensive)
2) you can FIX your problem and keep VATS intact and protecting your car from thieves

Why? If you bypass/disable VATS, you defeat the only immobilizer in your car and any retard with a screwdriver can steal your ride.
If you keep VATS, on the other hand, it will protect your car from said idiots and lowlifes. The only way to steal the car would be to tow it away.

Your problem could be in multiple places but these two are the most common:
A) ignition cylinder contacts
B) wire in the steering column

The ignition cylinder will cost you maybe $35 and so will a pair of new keys.
The wire in the steering column won't cost you anything but labor.

You can easily verify that by finding the right connector under the dash and by using a paperclip, connecting the key to it and starting your car. You can find links here on TGO everywhere. (sorry, I don't have any, I lost them all in a Windows crash)

Hope this helps
Lou

 

Wow, you must be kidding me, my post was censored? So a "red neck" is now a hardcore swear word? Amazing how low TGO could sink. *shake head*

 

This car has been in my family for 10 years. In that time the VATS system hasn't stopped a single thief. But it has left us paying for three tows home and some big headaches.

I'm thinking a bypass and kill-switch are in order. To be clear, the two small wires wrapped in the large yellow sleeve in the steering column are the wires that connect the ignition switch to the VATS right?

 

If you want it off for good pm me. I can burn a new eprom without the vats.

 

Hold on, Scotty, you mean that somebody stole your car with VATS enabled? Did they bring their own ECM memcal to drive away?

Yes, disabling the VATS option on the ECM chip is another way of defeating the anti-theft system. It's just not a fix.

Yes, those two thin white wires in the yellow sleeve are the ones you are looking for.

 

Oops, poor wording on my part. No one, as far as I know, has attempted to steal the car. But I really hate when this thing goes stone cold dead, out of nowhere.

Also, I apparently need a new multimeter. Mine keeps giving me the same reading for everything I test...

 

You own a Chevy, get used to it.

Check the leads and their connections to the multimeter. Sometimes those are the culprit.

 

once you get a good vom you can check B6 KOEO 30-50Hz at 50-60% if it is sending a signal from the passkey to the ecm.
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system
you can measure The resistance of the key pellet and use the corresponding resister to bypass the pellet resister. disconnect a orange sleeved wire going to the column. In this are the two white wires going to the passkey module. With these wires disconnected you can run the resister across the two wires. Don't just twist the solder or crimp but. I have seen issues with that bypass in the winter if the resister is too cold and is out of tolerance.

 

I have a multimeter that works, and finally got some free time. It seems the aforementioned VATS connector coming from the ignition isn't getting any signal at all.

I tried snipping the wires and crudely connecting some resistors to them. Still nothing at the connector. I tried inserting the resistors into the female end of the connector (that presumably runs to the computer) and still nothing.

 

The resister is used in conjunction with the passkey module if the resistance is incorrect the passkey module will not send the hz signal to the ecm. what is the value of the resister ?

 

The chip is about 700 ohms. I have 560+47+47+47 (701 ohms) resistors connected end to end.

When I inserted the key into the ignition, I didn't get any change in signal at the connector. Nor did I get any when I turned the key on, or wired some resistors directly to the connector.

I'd like to mention again that the car was flooded a little while back.

 

Odd that your car was flooded with the code 53 present with this no start issue. If it wasnt doing the code 53 I would think you have a icm or pickup coil issue. cheap passkey bypass.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-P...069889&vxp=mtr