ok so im picking up my alarm unit from Sonic Electronix tomorrow. i also am going to learn to do it myself. yes i could pay someone who knows what theyre doing but wheres the fun in that...
i have a few questions regarding tapping into lines.
the unit im getting is a 2 way unit with remote start option and trunk release button.
i thought that was pretty good and the reviews on them were all positive except for the transmitter being fragile to dropping and the housing breaking. thats where duct tape would come in i presume haha anyways along with my questions.

i read up on my haynes manual and i found the leads for the locks and also for the daytime running lights. i just wanted to know for:
1- do i put the wire for the door locks before the relay, after the switch? or after the relay before they split?? i would assume before the relay right? so it can get the power from the relay as the brain send a signal to put power to the lock actuators right??
these should be a lite blue and black cable according to me manual...
2- for tapping into the daytime running lights for the kick a$$ blinky action i would want to go after the headlight switch but before the DRL module correct??
3- fro my trunk release id want to tap into the cable after my switch and before the relay aswell??
lastly- has anyone installed remote start on their car?? i read somthing about a immobilizer bypass unit needed to be installed with it. but i dont see why i should spend the extra 50 bucks for it... mainly because i dont know what its meant for haha.

should i be worried about installing it and having vats?? what can i do to have a good install and not have problems??

i think that is everything i have to ask.
i know i could have a pro do it but im trying to get into the automotive business and have been doing everything on my car myself. its super fun and we all have to start somewhere right?? thanks -Aaron

 

The door lock outputs you will want to trigger the relays, it's more difficult to tap in after the relays, since you would need to actually set it up as a reverse polarity type set-up, that cuts the output from the relay. You may need to use relays or door lock polarity inverter device, if the door lock outputs from the RS don't have the ability to have the correct triggering polarity.

Why are you trying to tap into the DRLs? Tap into the parking lights, brown wire at the parking light switch, though you can find that same wire elsewhere.

Some cars don't have a relay to pop the hatch, some run directly from the switch to the hatch, you will need to check this. You will need a relay to pop to the trunk, if the factory relay doesn't (if present) doesn't directly pop the trunk. I have seen some OEM relays that are there to interrupt the hatch release when the car is in gear, not used to release the hatch.

As far as VATS goes, I'm not aware of V6 cars having, if it does, you can get a small module to work in conjunction with the systems. You can also use a resistor and a relay to accomplish the same thing, but as a beginner I would suggest using a module to simplify the install.

 

Saw a bypass for vats on this car. Its just says to tape into second vats wire and add a resistor the same ohms as the ones on my key...
That shouldbdobit according to my diagram on the installation manual. Well thats unless i have a pass lock system. Do our cars come with that?? No right??

 

Figured it all out... took me 3 hours but for a first timer i guess it wasnt too bad. did alot of instruction reading the days before and separated the wires i needed.
remote start is soo convenient on cold mornings that i dont want to go outside just to warm up the car.

 

Is it too late for pictures? I too am hooking up an alarm and actually want to see which wires you tapped into. For the hatch release, there's 2 wires that lead into the switch, a green and brown one. Everyone said tap into the brown one, but where exactly do you tap into that wire? Under the center console, or can you find that same wire under the steering wheel?