1988 Camaro code check with paperclip

First try ever at “pulling codes.”

I seem to be getting a “22” code, and a “54” code.

Need a little help here.
Tell me what all this blinkety-blink stuff means!

The “22” code is not listed as a possible code for the 1988 V6 2.8 liter model (although “22” is possible for every other motor). But, what makes even less sense is that the “22” is supposed to have something to do witha TPS (throttle position sensor?). I’m pretty sure the TPS is only on carbureted cars. My 1988 V6 motor has 6 fuel injectors.

Then, there’s the “54” code, which isn’t even listed on my listof possible codes. See list below.

I used my iPhone and Windows Movie Maker to prepare the vid.

Movie Maker gave me the option of publishing the vid at fiveor six resolution levels. I picked the resolution level that was the second-lowest rez. Probably no need for hi-rez to watch me stick a paperclip in a socket, and watch a light blink, and listen to me jabber in the background.

The 14-minute vid goes on for longer than most "veterans" here will need to watch. Looks like the blink-cycle of just two codes repeats many times. It required me to observe it through several repeated cycles to reach the realization that it will blink codes on an endless loop for so long as you leave the key on while the paper-clip is jammed in the A/B sockets of the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (a.k.a. ALDL).

Here’s the video of me pulling codes for the first time in my life:

You Tube

Here’s the list of codes I find in the 875-page “GM CAMARO1982-1992 Repair Guide”

 

Gizzy list lol

22 TPS voltage was under 0.2 volts for 3 seconds when the engine was running.
54 Fuel pump signal voltage was less than 2 volts for 1.5 seconds.

 

start looking at your charging system, battery connections. This also could be a ecm ground issue or faulty ecm. You might want to start looking at the tps voltage on the grey wire it should be close to 5v the return signal is the blue wire.

 

Updating this thread.

Replaced Mass Airflow Sensor today.

Ta-dah!!!... after all this time the "check engine" light finally went off.

Will note, I cleaned the pre-existing MAF first - using correct MAF aerosol. CEL stayed on. Noticed the pre-existing MAF had a sticker on the underside which revealed that it was a "rebuilt" part. That inspired me to source a NEW AC/Delco MAF.

Should mention that since this thread was last active, replaced the battery, alternator and distributor too.
Replacing the battery seemed to make an immediate difference in the "stumbling" issue - but did not cure it 100%.
Had to replace the alternator because it literally self-disassembled and puked the ball-bearings out of the back of the housing.
Replaced the distributor because it was a rusty and melted mess when I pulled it on the notion of replacing the O-ring to mitigate oil puddles.
The new Autozone distributor came with a new Ignition Control Module, rotor and cap as part of the package deal.

Driving today, she only stumbled the smallest bit when I pulled from a red light while maneuvering the turnaround on the interstate
cloverleaf.

Today, timing mark jumps back-and-forth still like a rat on crack - and with the Electronic Spark Control unplugged.
Figure that jumpy timing mark is either the timing chain or the harmonic balancer (or possibly both).
Pretty sure I first got the distributor installed with the base-timing too retarded.
Made an adjustment in the ADVANCE (counterclockwise) direction this morning while the motor was cool. Rotated the distributor counterclockwise 5-10 degrees.
Impossible to do anything with that rear-mounted distributor when the motor is hot because I have to literally lie on top of the motor to reach the distributor lock-down bolt.

Ran pretty deceint on the interstate today. Was able to get it to about 85 before traffic conditions and the urge for self-preservation made me lift. Felt like it might have had another 15 in her. Exhaust note was definitely less raspy today (compared to previous test-drive) after making the timing-advancement this moring.

Next driveability diagnostic is probably going to be fuel-pressure test.
Need to get a fuel pressure gauge with a long-enough hose so I can read it while I'm driving. The stumbling is very intermittent. I need to see the fuel pressure at that moment when the stumbling occurs. I am noticing a trend in the stumbling - that being that the stumbling is most likely to occur after the motor is at full temperature, and has been run with some gusto. The stumbling then happens most often at just off-idle during very light acceleration.

Will note too, I cleaned the throttle plate assembly and the idle air control valve assembly with throttle plate cleaner. The plunger for the IAC looked a little bit dirty - but looked better actually than I expected.