I used the proper resister during the VATs bypass and it works great except once and a great while the engine temperature gage goes up to 220*.
Not a problem because of stop and go traffic here in town but if I shut the car off at that temperature and then try to start it again at that temputer the VATs system engages and the car shows all of the symptoms of VATs. All I have to do is leave the car alone for 5 min. and it starts back up like a champ,nice and strong.
Any ideas ?
Man I hate intermittent electrical problems.

 

More likely

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._no_start_fix/
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articl...tart_Problems/
https://www.thirdgen.org/solenoid

 

Thank you for the links,a great read and I'm sure it would benefit the car. Thing is the starter and solenoid are "completely" covered in a thermal blanket that reflects over 90 per cent of radiant heat up to 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. I'm going to crawl under the car and take a look at it. I put the blanket on about 3 years ago because I was going through starters on a regular basis.I still have the same starter I started with.
Any way in the article they don't mention in detail what the symptoms are. They just say it wont start. Does it make a click sound when you turn the key or any sound for that mater ? Mine is dead quiet. Not even injectors because I'm pretty sure the pump is not running.

 

Pump is not related to VATS so if that is not working you have other problems.

Easy to prove .
Run a temp wire from the solenoid terminal up to the batt.
When you next have the hot no crank problem ,touch the wire on the batt Pos +terminal.
If engine cranks over , problem is with starter circuit or VATS related
If engine doesn't crank , you have a starter ( heat related ??? ) problem

 

OK, thanks