Well it all started about a week ago, i had dropped a valve and had to tear down the right side head to get everything fixed. Well after replacing springs, valve, pushrods, gaskets and all and everything put back together, all that was left was to test drive it. well first we had hell starting it, the battery was dead and starter wurrrrring and clicking. I figured it was just from the doors being left open and the car not running for a little over a week since it took so long for all the parts to come in. Finally got it charged and running so i take off down the road. Its missing like crazy and lacks power (later to be cured by readjusting the valves). Well i turn around to head back to the house and a smell something burning and all of a sudden the car shuts off, i try to start it back up but it does nothing. I popped the hood to find a wire coming off the distributor on fire, joy. I blow it out, tape the wire back up and check to see if i can find where it grounded out at, couldnt find it so i figured i would give it a shot. tried to start it again but the same problem as before, the battery acted like it was drained. I had to run a hot wire from the distributor to the battery to get it home. ended up running the same wire to a toggle switch to a hot lead in the fuse box just to make due until i could fix it. Ive noticed though, that my radio doesnt work, dome light and after market tach as well. also ive noticed that my lights shutter when going down the road. its almost like the entire chassis electrical system has quit. the only wires that ive found burnt are the red wire leading from the ignition switch and the wire coming off the coil on the dizzy. My ignition switch is also a little touchy after all of this, like it has a dead spot in it between on and start, if you mess with it enough it wont mess up but most of the time it wont keep the ignition on long enough for it to fire while the engine is being turned over. What am i missing???? also only half the time does the hard wire slots for the BATT and RDO (battery and radio) work. the wire i had running from the coil to the fuse box to keep it running even quit working. i now have to run a wire from the coil straight to the battery just to drive it.
THe car is an 85 RS w/ a 355/700r4, carbeurated 650 edeljunk, airgap rpm intake, flamethrower igniton, comp cam, timing gear drive.

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Try a new Ign switch for starters

Telling your whole life story doesn't help anybody when it has nothing to do with the problem you are asking about and you make it a extra long post very hard to read by no using any spaces!

acting like the battery is dead when you try to start it could mean the timing is off, did you move the distributor at all while working on the engine?

also, sounds like one of your chassis grounds may not be hooked up or clean, make sure you have a good ground from battery to chassis or engine and from engine to chassis (usually located at the back left corner of engine to firewall)

Exactly what I was thinking, be careful of this, this time the ground took the path of your distributor, usually it is the shifter cable, make sure you have adequate body and chassis grounds, you can never have enough, and that too can be the cause of your starter dragging, when you pulled the head, the ground behind it must have been severed....

Telling your whole life story doesn't help anybody when it has nothing to do with the problem you are asking about and you make it a extra long post very hard to read by no using any spaces![/quote]


that was a bit rude dont you think??? some of us arent as refined as you sir, after all my grandaddy was a shine producer.

could be as simple as the mistake that I made as a pup, I got the distributor power feed wires caught between the head and the block. the result was that I smoked 2 of the fusable links at the starter --- no power to the body. ??