Mrbanados

So the previous owner did me a huge favor and cut all the wires at the firewall and removed all the wiring from under the dash! now instead of going through the headache of that I want to wire up my headlights to a toggle switch. Just until I get the painless wiring kit. How would I go about doing so? I think I saw 5 or 6 wires coming from the headlights...green ones, tan ones and black ones I think..how do I hook them up to a toggle?

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/100-0.jpg

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

why dont you go get a harness from a car thats the same as yours at the jy, painless is expensive and you would still have to adapt it to your car.

Mrbanados

Cars like mine are scarce at the junkyard.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

I can sympathize with you there. If only the was a forum or something like that that was just for third gens. It would be great, they could have a classified section where we could find the parts we need......
Hit the classifieds here, you can find a harness I'm sure. If you plan on just racing the car, toggles are ok. But for actual driveability, and plug and play hook up, I'd go with a factory harness.

Mrbanados

I'm not asking what you would go with, this thread was about wiring up headlights to a toggle. That is what I want to do right now. I figured maybe somebody has done it before and could maybe save me some time.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

Well, you said you were going with the painless harness because cars like yours are scarce in a jy. Just saying they're fairly accessible on this site. A factory harness can be put back in in a few hours... much more "painless" than any aftermarket harness.
GL with your project

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

he gave you the diagram up there, you have to get a switch rated for high enough to handle all four on high. then hook one side up to that yellow after the switch and the other to an always hot source. that wont do anything for your running lights or instrument lights or fog lights if you have them, you will have to run separate switches for all those as well

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

The factory did which is why I posted the headlamp diagram for you to follow.

Read it and put your own switch on the headlamp wires where the factory has one !

And if you want to dim the lights you need the off /On switch and another switch to swap between Hi and Lo beam

Mrbanados

For some reason the diagram didn't show up? I clicked it. I would love to have the stock wiring all set up, but it was cut at the firewall and all the dash wiring was yanked out along with the dash and replaced with an aluminum dash. There was absolutely no interior but a racing seat. I finally sourced a car and was able to get all the interior including the dash but again for some reason on the parts car, the wiring was also cut lol. Was anyone else able to see that diagram? I'll post pictures up later so you guys can see what I'm dealing with.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

works for me

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

No need , we all know what a gutted interior and cut wires look like.

You say you have 3 wires at the lights , ground the black wire and run the other 2 inside to your switch(s) as per the diagram

Question needs to be asked;
why would your buy (unless it was free ? ) a gutted out,what appears to be a race only car and put it back in street trim when you could have bought something that required less or no work just to get it back to stock config ?

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

maybe he wanted a race car that could drive on the street. i got rid of at least 50% of my factory wiring but fortunatly my car was fine to begin with.

regardless rock auto has new switches for ten bucks and new pigtail harness for 22 i think i would go that way. much easier to just put certain things to stock so you know they are engineered and will function properly with your car.

ACDELCO Part # PT1930 {#88860485} 6-WAY FEMALE
Switch Connector-Headlamp Dimmer

Mrbanados

It was a really good deal, it already came with a lot of good stuff to work with, freshly rebuilt 350, with only 3 passes on it, racing seats, fiberglass hood, 3.73 gears, 5 speed, fresh paint etc. I already put almost all of the interior back in. I was able to source another Camaro that someone was gonna junk and gave the guy 50 bucks and he said I can take whatever I want off of it. They quoted me at the junkyard 250 just for the dash so already I think I'm doing pretty good. Only thing left is the wiring.

Mrbanados

I'll look into that, thanks!

Mrbanados

Finally got my headlights up and running! Luckily the harness for the headlights wasn't cut at the firewall! The only thing that wasn't hooked up was the ground coming from the headlights. All the wires were cut under the dash though. There were three light green and three tan wires under the dash so I kinda did any many miny moe as to what two to use. Used the original switch that I pulled from the parts car and dimmer switch as well. Luckily the switch harness and dimmer switch connector was all in tact. For some reason I'm not getting my lows but I think I used the wrong tan wire. Now to hook up the rear tail light all I do is connect the brown wire from the tail lights to the switch as well right?

This is what I started with.

Well worth going through all the trouble rather than using toggle switches!

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

there are browns going alot of places hopefully they didnt cut it.

Mrbanados

Oh boy..this will be fun.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Is the dimmer switch wired up ?


just need to find the right brown
See
http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/110-2.jpg

Mrbanados

Yes, the dimmer switch is wired up

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

So if you have the correct tan wire connected to the dimmer switch, you need to check the switch is working
by putting your DVM on the tan wire at the switch with it in Lo position.
If you have power here need to check the tan wire at the lamps

You have put power on the lamps to show they actually work................