Alternator issues
#1
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Location: Mims, Florida
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Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
Alternator issues
I have had a nagging problem with my alternator going out every so often. It seems like the regulator inside the alternator keeps going bad. AutoZone Gold series alternator might last one year. It has gotten so bad that I carry a spare alternator with me and the required tools. I just bought a brand new alternator from Advanced Auto and during the test drive, the voltage gauge dropped to about 9 volts after about 10 mintes driving, then popped back up close to 13V. And down agian and back up. This is a sign to me that its going bad. Whats up with these alternators? see sig.
#2
Junior Member
Re: Alternator issues
Mine is doing the same ****...when The lights are on and the heater it goes down a few volts...more when I'm stopped at a light...but will go up again when I start driving....then it's just up and down up and down
#3
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Location: Brooklyn indiana
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Car: 86 iroc
Engine: 383 ci
Transmission: 700r4 Kevlar kit, non-lockup
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Alternator issues
I had the same problem, put 3 alt. in less then a year, seems like every electrical component I have used that is a autozone part is junk. I have heard that they only use reman for the dura last brand
#4
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Alternative Advice
DOC, we’ll assume you’ve checked your voltage gage so it’s not the problem.
When the alt is on it’s low mode have you done a quick pit stop pulled over to see if the alt was too hot?
If it isn’t overheating you can set up this little monitoring device.
Use a low cost analogue voltmeter (because they respond the fastest) with long enuff leads to see it in the cockpit, and monitor, one at a time:
The brown wire goes to terminal F (the turn-on input) from the FAN fuse, and should have power when the key is in the RUN position.
The thinner red wire goes from a different Fusible Link, to terminal S (the sensing circuit) and should have power at all times.
The heavier red wire which goes from a Fusible Link, to the positive stud, and should have power at all times.
Now, when the low voltage indication is observed on your dash, what is the voltage reading on the test meter?
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Even Tho I Might Destroy The Car During The Race, At Least It Looks Gorgeous At The Start
When the alt is on it’s low mode have you done a quick pit stop pulled over to see if the alt was too hot?
If it isn’t overheating you can set up this little monitoring device.
Use a low cost analogue voltmeter (because they respond the fastest) with long enuff leads to see it in the cockpit, and monitor, one at a time:
The brown wire goes to terminal F (the turn-on input) from the FAN fuse, and should have power when the key is in the RUN position.
The thinner red wire goes from a different Fusible Link, to terminal S (the sensing circuit) and should have power at all times.
The heavier red wire which goes from a Fusible Link, to the positive stud, and should have power at all times.
Now, when the low voltage indication is observed on your dash, what is the voltage reading on the test meter?
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Even Tho I Might Destroy The Car During The Race, At Least It Looks Gorgeous At The Start
#5
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Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
Re: Alternator issues
NINA, thank you, I will have to digest that for awhile. I have not checked the voltage gauge in the dash, however, the meter does go up and down. The highest voltage reading is just above the 13 line; the lowest is around 9 volts, but there is no line there, so thats an estiamte. Anyway, the drop in voltage amounts to about 4 volts and that to me has always lead to a battery not being charged enough.
Concerning the AutoZone alternators: When the factory unit went out (years ago), I went to AutoZone and got a reman unit. I bought the 6 month or 1 year garan. It lasted about 6 months. I went back and upped to the Gold Series (lifetime warranty). Well, those go out too! Last week I went to Advanced Auto and purchased a brand new unit, not a reman. This one jumps around just like the AutoZone alternators. So I dont know. Im waiting for the other shoe to drop!
Concerning the AutoZone alternators: When the factory unit went out (years ago), I went to AutoZone and got a reman unit. I bought the 6 month or 1 year garan. It lasted about 6 months. I went back and upped to the Gold Series (lifetime warranty). Well, those go out too! Last week I went to Advanced Auto and purchased a brand new unit, not a reman. This one jumps around just like the AutoZone alternators. So I dont know. Im waiting for the other shoe to drop!
#6
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Car: 1983 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 350 block with original Cross Fire
Transmission: Auto
Re: Alternator issues
I've had the same issue in my 1983 Z. It ended up it had nothing to do with the alternator. It was a fuse making intermittant contact in the fuse block. I think it was the tin realy fuse in the block but I have not confirmed this asI have yet to trace that fuse to the "run" side of the ignition. The problem has not re-occurred since cleaning and re-seating it. Beofre that, I had taken the Alternator in for a rebuild. I had seen my gauge go from just above 8vDC to +13vDC off and on until it never came back. Now it is rock solid.
#7
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Car: 1983 camaro sc
Engine: 5.0L 305ci LG4
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Alternator issues
My 83 sc is doing the same thing over heating the alt and dropping volts intermittently while driving. Than after it sits a few days the battery is dead. Kobrak thanks for the tip i'll check that tin realy fuse in the block. This prob is driving me crazy.
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