Hey guys, looking for a little help.

i bought a 92 rs 3.1 with a T5 awhile back. Had to replace the entire harness. The only harness i could find came out of a 3.1 auto. I need to know how to splice in the manual trans wires into the auto harness so i can get my reverse lights and gauges working... Thanx in advance

 

The auto harnesses' tranny reverse wires are located on the Neutral Saftey Switch ( on shifter ) Many guys just cut them there, splice a T5 reverse light plug on, and run them thru the hole in the tranny tunnel to the T5. (You can run the wires anywhere you want.... going thru the tranny tunnel is simply the shortest path. )

I don't know why your having gauge problems........

 

Thanx for the response but sorry if i sound a little lost cause im actually alot of lost. Would the safety neutral switch had been apart of the harness that runs in the engine bay or interior wiring under the console??

The guy that sold me harness labelled everything but two plugs an i had assumed thats what went to the transmission. I'l post a pic of it once i get back around the car.

 

Neutral safety switch wires on the automatic harness ran to the shifter. They should be the larger two of six wires that went there (at least on V8s).

 

 

Are you speaking of the engine bay harness?
If so you have a real job on your hands, the reverse light wires go thru the C100 body connector and then to the trans thru the engine bay harness.

 

My car was always a manual so no i dont have a neutral switch. How would i go about wiring it from the c100

 

OK --->

Here's a schematic showing the factory wiring for the auto and manual cars. The factory wires lead from the Turn Back/Up fuse to the Turn Flasher and then to the C100 (pin B5) and onto the back-up switch on teh tranny using a Dark Blue wire.

Then the LT Green wire leads away from the back-up switch thru C100 ( pin C4 ) and back thru the car to the reverse lights.

If you've got your old harness you will simply need to cut off the original T5 back-up switchs plug/wiring and splice to your C100 dash harness connector. ( or re-pin the into the engine bay C100 connector )




2 wires,... nice and easy !

 

But from the factory it had a clutch safety switch at the top of the clutch pedal that did the same function; stopped the car from being started in gear

See
http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/30-1.jpg

 

The same wires that ran to the neutral safety switch at the automatic console shifter can be extended to the clutch safety switch on the pedals. Provided that the appropriate clutch safety switch is present... the switch will have to accommodate the heavier gage wiring. It should look like the first one here:

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...pedal-003a.jpg

photo borrowed from a post by FirehawkSS

If it's a small black one, it will have to be used in conjunction with a relay. The relays were used on fourth gens, and I've not seen them on 3rd gens but I've seen the part number for the black switch show up for some models.

 

As was asked before, what gauge isn't working? Or are all of the engine gauges not working?

All you need to do is to get the reverse switch wiring out of the old bulkhead connector and put it in the new one. Word of caution: Those connectors are full of black goo that will need to be gotten out of the way before you can do anything with either harness. Dark blue in B5, light green in C4.

The NSS has nothing to do with this. The starter wiring is irrelevant as the wiring is spliced for both in the dash harness and still runs out of the same terminal in the C100 (B4).

You need to retain the 2-wire plug for the transmission (at the end of the trans harness, for the VSS) and the 3-wire (in the 4-wire connector with one plugged hole) can either be cut out or hung out of the way. However, this plug is about where you will need to put the reverse switch wiring.

 

i really appreciate all the advice guys, i havent been able to get to the car in about a week.. but as soon as i get to it i will let u know how it turns out..

 

oh and as far as my gauges, neither of the speedometer, rpms or odometer gauges are working

 

Well, the odometer is run off of the speedo board, so if the speedo isn't working, that's not going to work either.

Check for a code 24... The ECM drives the speedo head based on inputs from the VSS. And then check for a switching voltage in C207 D with the ignition on, the rear wheels raised, and then spin the wheels (by hand unless you have a secure way to hold up the rear of the car). Also check the VSS signal between the ECM pins B9 and B10 with your meter set to measure AC volts. I believe you're supposed to find around 2 VAC between the yellow and purple VSS wires, but you will need to spin the rear wheels pretty fast...

As for the tach, they have been known to be buggy. But you will need to make sure that the wire in C100 D6 (tach sense) has some sort of voltage on it with the engine not running but the ignition turned on.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...l-harness.html

 

Just wondering why a relay is needed with the small black switch, I have this switch on my clutch/brake assembly (not installed yet, just trying to get all the info I can before doing the actual installation), it came from a mid 1980' maybe 85 camaro and is going into a 1982 with a rebuilt T5. The plug is the same as the white switch, where does the relay go?? In the fuse block ??? any additional info would be appreciated.

 

Relay is NOT required. Only cars that had a relay in the system were the 89-92 VATS cars for starter disable in the 3rd gen. I have the black switch, swapped over from the white one, and the only relay I have in my system is starter disable. Starter works fine (well, other than the fact that it's a cheap POS).

 

If the switch is the one with the larger guage wire connection, no relay is required. These switches, and associated wiring, are designed and capable of handling the starter current directly through them.

Some later clutch switches have smaller wire connections and a lighter duty switch. They were intended to energize a relay, usually along with anti-theft devices. Running starter current directly through these would burn them up.

 

OK I understand current draw and so forth as regards to wire size and contacts, is there a number I can check to verify my switch is suitable for a non-relayed setup, here is a pic of my freshly refurbished clutch/brake assembly with the "Clutch Position Switch" I am speaking about, thanks for any advice or helpful comments. The plug for this switch has a large purple and a large yellow wire, which I intend to splice into the Safety Neutral Switch wires at the auto shifter (same color and size), my cruise control electric/vacumn switches and brake switches are missing in this pic, installed them after I took the pic.

 

large purple and yellow wire = good to go without the relay